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Single–Tier Manual
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MoreBeer.com
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1–800–600–0033
Single–Tier Manual
•
MoreBeer.com
•
1–800–600–0033
far open you have the valves, and how long it took to sparge at that position.
Once we’ve filled our boil kettle past the thermometer probe, it’s time to fire up that burner to bring our wort
to a boil! It’s best to have the burner turned up all the way while getting to a boil, however once we achieve
a boil we may want to turn it down to help prevent a boil over. Make sure to turn off the pump and close the
ball valves of your hot liquor tank, mash tun, and boil kettle once the desired volume has been collected in
your boil kettle.
At the very beginning of the boil, you’ll most likely experience “the hot break”. This is identifiable by a layer of
foam forming on the top of your wort, and is a good thing until it spills all over your BrewSculpture and kettle!
To prevent the hot break from a “boil-over”, either reduce the heat or spray the foam with water out of a spray
bottle. Blowing on the foam can help a little also, but only if the heat has been reduced first. After getting
through the hot break, start your timer for the length of the boil you’ll be doing. 60, 75, and 90 minutes are
generally the most common boil times, but depending on your brewing style and recipe, other times may be
appropriate also. Through the boil, you’ll be adding your hops, adjuncts, and other ingredients as the recipe
calls for them.
NOTE:
Whole leaf hops will need to be put into a mesh bag, as they will clog the ball valve if they’re not
contained.
While your wort is boiling, it may save you time to connect the long piece of tubing to the mash tun
ball valve, and open it allowing any extra liquid drain into a bucket/drain.
With about 15 minutes left in the boil, we’ll want to start the whirlpool re-circulation. During the recirculation
of the wort, we will want to unplug the pump from the “Pump” outlet, and plug it into the “Always On” outlet.
With all tubing connected properly, turn the dial on the control panel to “On”. This should turn the pump on.
To turn it off, simply unplug the pump.
While the whirlpool will be ineffective until we turn the flame off and kill the boil, re-circulating through your
tubing, pump, and potentially your plate or counterflow wort chiller will help ensure that any possible wild
yeast or bacteria that happened to be there is killed by the boiling temperature of the wort.
At the end of the boil, we’ll turn the flame off and allow the whirlpool to run for 1–2 minutes. After this 1–2
minutes is up, you can turn the pump off, and allow the whirlpool to settle. The reason we want to create this
whirlpool is to accumulate all of the hop sediment, grain particles that made it through during sparge, extra
proteins, etc. in the center of the boil kettle. Allow the whirlpool to settle in the center of the kettle for about
15 minutes (you can crack the boil kettle lid open to see if it’s still swirling around – if not then you’re ready to
transfer). If you’re using an immersion chiller, you’ll want to wait until your wort is at the desired temperature
prior to transferring. If you’re using a plate or counterflow chiller, you’ll be ready to transfer through the chiller
once the whirlpool has settled. To transfer into your fermenter(s), you’ll want to close the whirlpool ball valve,
disconnect the quick disconnect, and run that length of tubing to your fermenter(s). Make sure all ball valves
are open, and turn the pump on!
NOTE
: Transferring at a slightly slower rate will help ensure that you do not create too
much suction on the inside of your boil kettle, which will help to keep the hop sediment remain in the center of the boil kettle,
rather than pulling towards the diverter barb on the side of the kettle.
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The Mash Tun temperature controller will be controlling the pump during your mash process. When the
temperature of your mash falls below the set point on the controller, it will allow the electricity to flow, which
will turn the pump on. This will begin pumping your mash through the heat exchanger, gradually bringing it
back to the proper temperature.
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The Hot Liquor Tank controller will be controlling the solenoid valve in front of your hot liquor tank burner.
When the cooler mash runs through the heat exchanger, this will lower your hot liquor water temperature.
How The Digital Package Works:
