3
Before You Begin
The
Despatch No. 9
is an interesting model for
beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a
solid hull, which has been machine-carved
from select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-
wood. This style hull provides a quick and
easy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-
tions of hull design and helps to develop
woodworking skills. Although the exterior of
the hull has been carved close to the hull lines
as shown on the plans, further carving is nec-
essary for reasons of accuracy. (Carving and
finishing the hull to its final shape are dis-
cussed in the instructions.)
Constructing the
Despatch No. 9
model also
will provide you with the opportunity to
develop some scratch-building techniques.
During construction, you may want to sub-
stitute some of the kit fittings with your own
creations. By all means try them, especially if
you think you can improve the model.
If you are a beginner, completing this model
will prepare you for a more complicated
model such as the
Dapper Tom,
another solid
hull model but a sailing ship with rigging to
contend with, and eventually a model like
Pride of Baltimore II, which is outfitted with
a plank-on-bulkhead hull. In the meantime,
happy modeling!
Working with the Plans & Parts
Before starting model construction, examine
the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-
izing yourself with the kit will serve two
purposes. First, it will let you determine that
all parts have been supplied as listed. And
second, you’ll be surprised at how quickly
handling the parts allows you to better under-
stand the kit requirements. Try to visualize
how every part will look on the completed
model. Also, determine ahead of time what
must be done first. The instructions will help
you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge
of the plans at the outset is essential.
It is also suggested that all small fittings and
hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or
compartments to avoid loss during the
building process.
Two Plan Sheets and Two Template Sheets are
provided:
1. Hull Plan (Sheet 1 of 2)
2. Lines Plan and Details (Sheet 2 of 2)
3. Hull Templates (Sheet 1of 2 - Profile) on
heavy paper stock
4. Hull Templates (Sheet 2 of 2 - Stations) on
heavy paper stock
Note:
In the process of updating the plans,
several new details were added that reflect the
real boat construction as well as details for the
model construction. The real
Despatch
was
constructed of fairly thin steel plates that
would be too thin for a small scale wooden
model. So, the model construction is modi-
fied on some details. The real ship details
provided are interesting to know and they
allow you to be creative and possibly modify
the model details provided for the kit design
to suit your own approach.
In addition to the plans, a set of sketches
appears throughout the instruction manual
to further illustrate the various stages
of construction.
The
Despatch No. 9
kit is manufactured to a
scale of 5/32" = 1'0" and matches the plans.
Consequently, most of the dimensions can be
lifted directly from the plans using a “tick
strip”. This is simply a piece of paper (a roll of
calculator paper tape works very well). Mark a
dimension from the plan onto the tick strip
and transfer it to the model.
The
Despatch No. 9
kit is supplied with
Britannia metal, brass, as well as wooden
fittings to eliminate problems in making such
parts from scratch. Because the Britannia
metals contain no lead, there are no possible
corrosion problems. Many of these fittings
will require final finishing before installing on
the model.
Before painting the cast-meal fittings, clean
them up by removing all the mold-joint flash.
To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cut the
flash, then sand with fine sandpaper. It is also
suggested that you clean the fittings
thoroughly with warm soapy water before
applying primer. Make sure they are rinsed
thoroughly and allowed to dry before painting.
What You’ll Need To Start
The following tools and supplies are recom-
mended for the construction process.
Modelers who have built before may have
their own favorites. Almost all are available
at www.modelexpo-online.com.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades
2. Fine tooth razor saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp
D. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Several wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands
E. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or individual
hand chisels for shaping the hull.
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
(you won’t use all the sizes in the set)
2. 1/16", 3/32", & 3/16" bits for various
fitting holes
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. Small round
b. Flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron
a. Solder
b. Flux
Note: soldering is not essential for this particular model
if the kit fittings are used.
7. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape
8. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire
and strip metal)
H. Sandpaper
Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum
oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)
I. Finishing:
1. Paint brushes
a. Fine point for details
b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull
J. Supplies:
(will be covered in detail in
the Painting section and throughout instruc-
tions)
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. White or Carpenter’s (yellow)
Wood Glue
4. Five-minute epoxy
5. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue
Note about glues:
White or Carpenter’s yel-
low wood glue will suffice for most of the
model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra
strength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate
(Super) glue, called CA glue for short, such
as Zap is excellent for quick adhesion. The
best CA glue for most applications is a
medium viscosity gap-filling type. The
watery-thin type is recommended only to
fill a narrow crack by capillary action. For
CA glue, you can also purchase a liquid
accelerator such as Zip Kicker. A spray or
drop of the accelerator will instantly cure
the glue. This is handy to eliminate clamp-
ing parts for long periods of time waiting
for glue to harden.
Use CA glue with caution. You can easily
glue your fingers or eyelids together and the
fumes can burn your eyes. It would be a
good idea to have a bottle of CA debonder
on hand. This product will dissolve the glue
if you do get it on your skin.
