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opposite side, as done with the roll servos, a swash conical spacer bush D58
will be pushed on and provisionally screwed onto the rear swash hole. Now
while the push rods are virtually vertical the correct length of the push
rods will be checked (servo arms horizontal and square) and readjusted if
necessary.
If everything is ok, all three push rods will be detached again, the swash blade
holder D53 pushed onto the brass distance bush D55 of the elevator push rod and
each pair of threads will be lubricated with an abundance of Loctite 243 and
screwed together tightly again. Finally the swash anti-rotation device D33 is
fixed with 2 distance bushes D32 and 2 hex screws M3x25 D336, using also a lot
of Loctite. Now remove the bearing ring to check the free movement of the
elevator swash bush in the anti-rotation device. For this it is necessary to
disconnect the servo arm. If the tube has difficulties moving downwards, both
screws of the anti-rotation device have to be tightened up. A slight clearance
should be there, to assure a free-movement control. If everything is ok, all
three push rods are detached again, the swash anti-rotation device D53 pushed
onto the brass spacer bush D55 of the elevator push rod and each pair of threads
coated liberally with Loctite 243 and screwed together tightly again.
Bag 9: Mainrotor (Step 27-30)
27. First the two O-ring bushes 586 are fitted with two O-rings 591,
slightly lubricated and pushed into the recesses of the main rotor hub D52.
The feathering spindle 521 is inserted next and centered.
The rotor head cap 580 is installed with x4 hex lens bolts M3x6 D199. From
each side one after another will be slid on: a 0.5mm shim washer 047, a
16x8x5 radial ball bearing 071, a blade grip mounting bush 509, a thrust
bearing 100, a shim washer 8x14x0.5 047 and again another radial ball
bearing 071. Note that the shim of the thrust bearing with the larger inner
diameter (8.2mm) must be mounted first and the other one (8.0mm, blue
marked) is mounted outsides. If you have no caliper to measure that you can
simply put both shims onto the shaft. The shim that can be tilted more is
the inner shim.
Each side is secured with a hexagon socket bolt M5x12 034 and x2 washers
each side 5x10x1 052 – the spindle thread and the bolt should be degreased
before assembly and coated with Loctite as per usual practice. The inner
thrust bearing race which sits loosely on the spindle shaft and the bearing
cage open side facing inwards, are lubricated slightly with grease. The
outer thrust bearing race is a tighter fit on the spindle. The unit will now
be firmly tightened with x2 4mm hex cross handle wrenches. Before the M5
screws are tightened with Loctite the following procedure should be done for
finding the best pre-load of the feather-spindle unit to avoid O-ring
extrusion from the rotor hub in extreme flight. Add on the outside of each
side (between shim washer 047 and radial bearing 071) about 0.2-0.3mm more
of shim washers. Then tighten the M5 bolts until you feel that the thrust
bearings become notchy. In that case then undo the M5 bolts, remove 0.1mm of
shim on each side and tighten again. Repeat this procedure until the M5
bolts are locked and the thrust bearings just run smooth. Then add Loctite
to the M5 screws and tighten them. After tightening the feathering spindle,
turn the spindle about one revolution to equalize tension across the rotor
head. Then the unit should be cleaned of grease and each bearing assembly
rolled over a flat surface, so all components are aligned concentrically.
This will assist sliding-on of the blade grips 538a.
28. Push the blade grips on the bearing units. If that is difficult then
warm the blade grips with a heat gun or in the oven at about 150°C/300°F and
push them on, holding with an oven-cloth to avoid burned fingers(!) so that
they are aligned to the bolt holes. With a 2mm hex socket wrench, or
similar, it is possible to line-up the holes in the grips with the thread
holes in the grip holding spacer.
After cooling down, the blade grip arms D53 will be screwed on with a hex
bolt M3x8 D82 and a hex bolt M3x14 D85 (do not tighten too much yet). Put x2
hex bolts M3x6 D81 in each of the free bore holes of the blade grips. Then
the blade grips are pulled forcefully outwards, and the gap to the damping
inserts 586 checked for symmetry. If everything is consistent, all hex
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