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If your Metro has only been installed within the past few days,
the fire cement seal at the base of the flue will not be fully cured.
To ensure the cement sets without blistering it is recommended
you burn 2-3 sheets of loosely crumpled newspaper at a time,
approximately once every hour over a 6-8 hour period.
During the very first fire your Metro will give off an odour and
fumes as the firebox paint cures. Do not be alarmed. Open all
windows and externally opening doors in that room and close
any internally opening doors. This curing process will last for
approximately one hour and is likely to happen this one time.
Start up
Place a quantity of loosely crumpled newspaper on the base
of the firebox until it is approximately 50% full of paper, or
place firelighters on the base of the firebox. Add dry kindling
and move the air control knob fully to the right, being the “full
open” position.
Light the paper at two or three locations across the front of the
door opening and leave the door slightly ajar resting on the
latch pin if necessary for a few minutes while the fire establishes.
Once the kindling is burning well, open the door and add 2-3
small logs at a time until you have a well-established fire. Usually
this will take approximately 30 minutes, during which time the air
control should be set on “high” and the door should be closed,
except for the initial few minutes and when fuel is being added.
Normal operation
Once the fire is well established, regulate the air control to
achieve the desired burn rate and heat output. As you move
the air control to the right, burn rate, firebox temperature and
heat output will increase, if you move the control to the left
they will decrease.
Please note:
• Always open the air control fully prior to opening the door,
then open the door slowly.
• When loading logs, place them end-on, “front to back”; air
spaces should be left between the logs to enable oxygen
to get to as much of the surface of the fuel as possible.
• Every time you refuel, leave the air control on “high” for a
minimum of 20-25 minutes.
• Never use the door to force wood into the firebox, as this is
likely to break the glass.
Cooking
All Metro’s are designed to enable cooking of soups, stews
and casseroles etc, and your Metro will easily boil a flat
bottom stainless steel kettle. The Radiant Series have a
dedicated cooking top enabling large pots to be placed on
the cook top, while all other models have a lift-off grill.
Note: Metro’s supplied with a lift-off top grill have this feature to enable
the grill to be removed for cleaning if you have a spill. The lift-off top
grill must be left on when cooking, because if removed the wall
temperatures next to the appliance may become excessive and
the top of the firebox is generally too hot to cook on directly. Please
note: Although very durable, Metro’s in a satin stainless look are not
recommended to be used to cook on.
Operating your Metro wood fire
Cleaning and maintenance for your Metro wood fire
The Ambience Series wood fires outer panels are coated with
vitreous enamel.
• Vitreous enamel is extremely durable and designed to
last the life of the appliance. As vitreous enamel is glass, a
solid or heavy object dropped or banged against a panel
could chip the enamel surface.
All model Metro’s can be cleaned with a cloth when the
appliance is not operating.
• This appliance must be regularly maintained and
replacement parts must be authorised Metro parts only.
Door glass and glass replacement
Providing your fuel is properly seasoned, under normal
operating conditions the air-wash design of the Metro’s firebox
will keep the door glass clear. If the glass requires cleaning you
may use either a razor blade scraper or an oven cleaner.
If your door glass breaks it must be replaced with 5mm thick
ceramic glass which is available from your local Metro retailer.
Refer specific glass replacement instruction below.
1. Take the door off your Metro.
2. Remove the 4 cap screws protruding through the back of
the door frame.
3. Release the 6 [8 for Ambie Plus] tensioning screws by
turning clockwise, these are accessible through holes in
the back of the door frame. Take care not to screw these
in any further than necessary which is flush with the cast
hinge boss as you run the risk of the screw busting out the
back and breaking the glass.
4. Unbolt and remove the bottom section of the door frame.
5. Remove the 6mm nut securing the latch to the spindle,
gently tap the latch plate until it comes loose on the
spindle, remove the plate and extract the door handle
spindle from the frame.
6. You can now extract the cast backing plate from the door
frame, take care not to drop the casting as it may break.
7. The glass can now be removed out the same opening.
8. Replacement is the reverse of the above procedure with
the following notes.
9. Fully tighten the 4 removable section securing screws
before attempting to tension the glass in the frame.
10. Fit the 4 long locating screws leaving them protruding by
approx 4mm, this correctly locates the casting inside the
frame.