7.) I make the assumption that no parts are bent and you have used your thumb to get
toe and camber where it looks ok. 2” of toe out or +3 camber on one wheel is what
I mean, correct that NOW by eye, do not spend too much time on it.
8.) After each setting adjustment, bounce the car in place STOP, roll it 8-10” back
then forward to where it was. NEVER, bounce again after you start rolling
forward and always end your bounce going up, not down on the car.
9.) You have a factory manual and know how to use it for finding out the procedures
needed to make the setup adjustments.
10.) Empty all fuel and put one gallon back in.
11.) Using a fish scale, and after all prep is done, I measure the car’s resistance on a
flat surface. Record what it takes to just roll the car. Later, as you do
maintenance, compare the freshly prepared car to the after raced car. If you gain
resistance, look to see if there is a reason for that gain (brakes, fluid break down,
bearings etc…). Correct if you can keeping in mind that you might establish a new
resistance number after the car has seen the track and become seated in.
Regarding setup and especially for new builds this process below will not be very fun as you
will chase yourself narrowing the gap of the different settings. You will find out that when
you make a change to one setting, others may be altered. Be patient, the gap will lesson
until it is right.
It Begins
Step #1 (Ride Height)
Using the spring perches, adjust the ride height to 5-1\4” at the pinch weld on the bottom of
the car at the rocker panel (see Picture 2 & 3). It is normal for the LR to have more threads
showing on the bottom compensating for the driver’s weight. This will take sometime as you
get used to how the car moves on one corner while you adjust another. BE PATIENT, keep
going back and forth till it is near perfect. Remember this step, you will be back here again
many times. You will not be showing the same amount of threads corner to corner.
Remember, the floor where your car sits AND where you measure from needs to be level!!!
Step #2 (LR Toe and Camber)
We now need to square the car up so we can run through the first of several settings
adjustments. Remember those bolts I had you install, now is the time to use them. They
are used to measure the lower control arm on the driver’s side rear wheel verse the
centerline of the car. Using a telescopic measuring device, adjust the lower cam bolts until
the distance between the bolts you installed, front and rear, and the back of the outboard
bushing flange of the lower control arm are the same, front and rear (see picture 4). You
now have zero toe on that wheel and that wheel is pointing straight.
While doing this wheel, go ahead and make the camber -2. You are adjusting the cam
bolts anyway, this is what I like to do. Often, I do not have to touch this wheel again.
JUST REMEMBER, if you get out of whack, set this wheel again and go from there, keep
reading. Keeping this wheel square is vital to this process!!
