3. R.O. Manifold Assembly–
The manifold
can be installed on either the right or left
side of the under–sink area or a cabinet.
The right side is recommended because
the tubing will be to the back of the cabinet
and out of the way. Installation in the
basement is also an option, one location is
near the laundry/utility sink where cold
potable water and drain access is handy.
The mounting location should allow ade-
quate clearance and accessibility for car-
tridge changes.
4. Feed Water Connection–
The Feed Water
Saddle Valve should be located as close
to the manifold assembly as possible. USE
A POTABLE COLD WATER SUPPLY
ONLY. Softened water is preferred as it
will extend the life of the R.O. Membrane.
5. Drain Connection–
The waste water must
go to drain through an anti–siphon air gap.
The air gap is provided for in the base of
the faucet. If discharging into a utility sink
or standpipe, an air gap of greater than 1"
above the flood rim must be provided.
Do NOT connect the system drain line to
the dishwasher drain or near the garbage
disposal. Backpressure from these units
may cause the air gap to overflow.
SECTION IV. INSTALLATION STEPS
All plumbing should be done in accordance with
state and local plumbing codes.
NOTE:
Some codes may require installation by a
licensed plumber; check with the local plumbing
authority prior to installation.
In restricted under–sink areas, it may be easier to
install the faucet first. Allow adequate tubing
lengths for any final component position.
A. Faucet Installation–
The faucet contains an
anti–siphon air gap. While the system is pro-
ducing water, the drain water flows from the
R.O., through the air gap and then to the
household drain. The purpose of the air gap is
to prevent water in the drain from backing up
into the R.O. Drinking Water System.
NOTE:
For proper installation the Air Gap
Faucet has a critical level line “CL” marked on
its body and should be mounted so that the
“CL” line is at least one (1) inch (26mm)
above the flood rim of the sink.
The easiest installation is to use an existing
spray attachment hole. If the spray faucet
hole is not available, then the sink top must
be drilled. Choose a convenient location as
described in
Sec. III, C.1, page 4.
1. Mark the location of the center of the
faucet base.
2a.Drilling a stainless steel sink:
• Center punch the hole to provide a start-
ing point for the drill.
• Start with a smaller drill as a pilot, and
then drill a " diameter hole to accept the
bolt of a 1 " Greenlee Hole Punch (1 "
chassis punch).
• Clean away any chips.
• nstall the punch and tighten the nut to cut
the hole.
• Deburr any sharp edges.
2b.Drilling a porcelain sink:
It is best to use a special 1 " diameter cut-
ter designed for porcelain. A carbide
tipped masonry bit is a second choice.
•Place a piece of tape over the area to be
drilled to help prevent chipping.
•Drill a pilot hole for the porcelain cutter.
Use the pilot drill supplied with the kit or
a carbide tipped drill.
•When drilling the 1 " hole, drill slowly and
carefully; the porcelain chips easily.
•After drilling, clean the area well. Iron fil-
ings, if left in place, can cause rust
stains.
2c. Drilling a counter top:
NOTE:
The counter top must be less than
1 " thick. (See Sec. IV, A.2b, page 5.)
Treat ceramic tile as porcelain until the tile
is penetrated, then use the carbide tipped
metal cutter.
Formica counter tops may be drilled with a
good 1 " wood bit, drilling a 3/32" pilot hole
will help keep the bit going straight.
