29. BOAT MAINTENANCE
LEAKS:
Even though the MacGregor 26 has no under water thru hull
fittings, other than the water access system for the ballast
tank, it is a good idea to check the cockpit, outboard well
and galley drains to make sure all connections are tight and
waterproof. Check the water ballast valve for leakage as
described earlier.
WATER VALVE SEAL:
Check to make sure the rubber seal is held in place against
the metal plate at the bottom end of the water intake valve.
If the rubber comes loose, the incoming water could suck
the rubber up against the hull and seal the water intake holes.
It will then take forever for the tank to fill.
It is also a good idea to check the valve for signs of elec-
trolysis or corrosion.
INSPECTING THE HULL AND DECK:
Periodically inspect the boat for cracks, delaminations, blis-
ters or signs of impact damage. Gel coat, the outer cosmetic
finish, is fairly brittle and occasionally cracks and crazes
where it is stressed. This is normally cosmetic only. If craz-
ing appears, check to see if the fiberglass itself, and not just
the colored gel coat, is damaged.
INSPECTING MAST SUPPORT WIRES:
The mast support wires should be checked frequently to make
sure there are no broken strands. If you find a broken strand,
replace the wire immediately.
INSPECTING HARDWARE:
Also check all bolted on hardware to make sure everything
is tight and leak proof. Squirt the boat with a hose and look
for leaks. If one is found, make sure the bolts are tight and
all joints are sealed.
EXTERIOR FINISH:
The fiberglass finish should be protected in the same man-
ner as an automobile finish. An occasional polishing and
waxing (with any good quality automotive polish and
wax) will keep the surface in excellent condition. If the boat
is left in the water (either fresh or salt water), apply a good
coat of anti-fouling bottom paint. Without good bottom paint,
the white gel coat exterior surface may blister.
30. REMOVING THE CENTERBOARD
Lift the boat off its trailer and set it on strong supports about
3' off the ground. With a screwdriver, pop out the white plugs
just aft of the centerboard fitting on the bottom of the hull.
This allows access to a molded in air pocket where you can
get at the centerboard nut. (Don’t panic when you see the
plug. It isn’t the only thing keeping water out of the hull.
The real hull is about 2" above the false hull bottom where
the centerboard is attached.) Bend an end wrench to reach
up and hold the nut, and remove the bolts. The centerboard
and its hanger assembly can then be lowered out of the boat.
Be careful not to drop it on yourself.
Remember to release the centerboard rope, or the board will
not come down.
31. TRAILER MAINTENANCE
GENERAL:
A good periodic inspection and clean up can add years to
the trailer’s life.
All of the maintenance and operation procedures mentioned
are very important as there are no warranties of any kind on
brake systems for boat trailers.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: To adjust the brakes, go through
the following steps:
A. Jack up and support the trailer with the wheels mounted,
brake drums cool, and the actuator in the towing position.
B. Compress the actuator mechanism several times to
center the shoes in the brake drum, then return the actuator
to the fully extended towing position.
C. On the inside or back side of the brake backing plate, you
will find a rubber or spring steel plug. Under this plug there
is a brake shoe adjusting slot. With a brake adjusting tool,
similar to the kind used on cars, adjust the brake until a heavy
drag can be felt when you turn the wheel and tire. Then
back off the adjustment until the wheel just turns freely.
Repeat the above steps on each brake drum. Adjust the brake
linings after the first1000 miles and every 2000 miles there-
after. It is best to adjust them at the beginning of each sea-
son. Replace brake linings when they become worn.
BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM:
Fill the system with SAE 70 R1 or 70 R3 heavy duty brake
fluid. Install a rubber hose on the wheel cylinder bleeder
valve. Have the loose end of the hose submerged in a glass
container of brake fluid to observe bubbling. By loosening
the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder one turn, the sys-
tem is open to the atmosphere. Pump the actuator with long
steady strokes. The bleeding operation is complete when
the bubbling stops. Be sure to close the bleeder screw se-
curely. Repeat the bleeding operation at each wheel cylin-
der. During the bleeding process, replenish the brake fluid,
so the fluid level does not fall below 1/2 full in the master
cylinder reservoir. After bleeding is completed, refill the
master cylinder and securely install the filler cap. Replace
cloudy, dirty or watery brake fluid.
Summary of Contents for 26
Page 13: ......
