Press all parts tightly in position and fix engine base plate 55 to frames 53 and 54 with some spots of CA-cement.
Remove engine and engine room floor 52 once more, reinforce engine base plate 55 with supports 59 and eventu-
ally cement base plate 55 to frames 53 and 54 as shown in Fig. Hand file notches for supports 59 into frame 50.
Place engine room floor into the hull again, add doubler 56, steam-engine,
stern tube, and shaft once more, align and then mark the position of the moun-
ting holes of the steam-engine on base plate 55.
Then drill all required holes through engine room floor 52 and base plate
55 as shown in reduced scale diecut sheet drawing, press captive nuts 60
through 62 in position from the bottom and secure them with epoxy cement.
Cement hatch supports 63 and 64 on the bottom of engine room floor 52 and then fit hatch 65. Put floor into hull
again and mark positions of captive nuts 61 on spacers 51. Cut out spacers about 1,5 mm for captive nuts until floor
52 evenly touches all floor frames and spacers.
Then cut, fit and glue planks 66 onto floor. Let dry thoroughly, sand even and then drill mounting holes through the
planking too.
Prime floor twice all around with sanding sealer and then apply two or three coats of clear varnish or synthetic
enamel.
Scratch waterproofing off floor 52 where it touches frames and spacers. Run beads of white glue on floor supports
37 and 43, spacer supports 46, floor frames 48 through 50 and spacers 51, slide floor 52 into hull tightly against
the fore frame, press the main frame against the rear edge and weigh the floor down until the glue has dried. Then
cement the floor sides and the main frame to the hull with CA-cement.
Cement doubler 56 onto base plate 55 and let dry. Then mount steam-engine in position. Slide stern tube with
shaft 57 without set collar through the whole in the keel. Connect the rear keel upper toilet 68 at the keel end with
adhesive tape to stern tube. Adjust all as mentioned in the plan and correct the exact seat, eventually by sanding
down the engine room floor frame 50, so that the shafts of steam engine and stern tube align exactly. Our simple
coupling with driving pin at the crankshaft and stop pin on the prop shaft corrects some lack in the alignment, but
every inaccuracy will cost power and reduces the efficiency.
Adjust once more and then cement stern tube support 67 to the hull with CA-cement and to the stern tube with epo-
xycement. Eventually cement and seal stern tube to the hull with Stabilit-Express polyester-cement.
Fit and cement rudder hinge mounting blocks 73 and 74 to the
stern. The Rudder 75 is ready made. Plank it with strips 77 as
shown in Fig. J and then complete it with tiller76, shaft 78, three
straps 79, nails 80 (shorten them as necessary), tiller 81 (cement
from three laminations), rudder head doublers 82, flagstaff hol-
der 83 and the cleat, made from parts 84 and 85. Prime the
rudder with sanding sealer and finish it off with clear varnish or
synthetic enamel.
Slide hinges 86 in position and fix them to the stern with screws
87. Eventually fit rudder heel 88 with bearing 89 and fix it to the
rear keel with screws 90.
Cut, fit and cement skirting boards 91 and 93 into the corners
between fore frame, engine room floor and main frame, then
drill sealing plate 92 for stern tube and cement it in position.
Waterproof (apply sanding sealer and clear varnish) three 1,5x5x1000 mm mahogany strips for ribs 94 on one side
only, then cut, fit and cement them to the hull sides with CA-cement.
To make fore bulwark 95, thoroughly soak both parts in hot water, cut „template for parts 95“ from scrap plywood,
put both parts 95 in position and jam them there with the template until dry. Remove them, glue them together with
Victoria • Steam Launch 20261
