background image

4

the outer ribs first; then proceed towards the centre of 

the horizontal tailplane.

Once the glue has cured thoroughly, remove the hori-

zontal tailplane from the building plan. Sand the lea-

ding and trailing edges flush with the end ribs; glue the 

tailplane tips 

15

 in place.

With a sanding block, shape the tips and the leading 

and trailing edges (

Det. A-A

). The horizontal tailplane 

has been finished for now; once covered with the tis-

sue, glue the bamboo dowel (Φ2.5x40 mm) 

16

 onto the 

centre plate 

12

 extending behind the trailing edge by 

15 mm.

Fuselage and Fin

The fuselage consists of the tail boom made of spruce 

sticks and balsa blocks and the front fuselage block 

made of Ceiba plywood offering enough space for the 

ballast and timer (if you decided to install one).

If you consider installing a timer (either mechanic or 

electronic) and dethermalizer, now it is the time to cut 

the openings in the fuselage block 

25

 as needed.

Start with the wing seat. Glue two balsa sticks 

21

 along 

the outer edges of the plywood seat plate 

20

. Now 

glue the wing seat to the fuselage 

25

. Keep it centred 

and square to the side of the fuselage.

Glue spacers 

22

 to the both sides of the fuselage along 

the bottom of the wing seat; front edges matching the 

front edge of the wing seat plate. Glue the tail boom 

spruce sticks 

23

 (3x8x450 mm) to the fuselage sides; 

fitting tightly into the notch in the spacers 

22

 and tou-

ching the rear edge of the wing seat plate. Glue the 

balsa spacer 

24

 (3x8x75 mm) between the rear ends 

of the tail boom sticks – apply glue to both sides of 

the spacer, insert it between the sticks 

23

 and clamp 

together using a clamp or clothes pegs. Immediately, 

before the glue set, lay the fuselage up side down onto 

the top view on the building plan placed on your work 

bench. Double check the tail boom and the entire fuse-

lage was true and straight; the tail boom sticks 

23

 and 

the spacer 

24

 aligned nicely.

Round the leading and trailing edges of the rudder 30. 

Use the tip of a pointy modeller’s knife to cut slots for 

the brass tin rudder hinges 

29

 into the fin 

28

 and rud-

der 

30

. Cyano the hinges into the rudder and then into 

the fin leaving a slight gap between the fin and rudder. 

Glue the complete fin and rudder assembly between 

the tail boom sticks; the bottom edges matching.

Glue the beech wing hold-down dowel 

35

 into the fu-

selage. Drill the hole for the horizontal tailplane hold-

-down dowel 

34

 (bamboo Φ2.5x25 mm) using 2.5 mm 

drill bit (10 mm deep) and glue it in place.

Make the front horizontal tailplane seat: Glue the spru-

ce stick (3x5x25 mm) 

27

 to the plywood plate (1 mm 

- 25x15 mm) 

26

. Glue it to the tail boom and into the 

notch in the fin. Lay the horizontal tailplane down on 

the seat in order to check the tailplane was square to 

the fuselage sides (when looking from the nose to the 

tail) and also square to the longitudinal axis of the fu-

selage (when looking from above). Cut 1.5 mm notches 

for the rubber band in the spruce stick 

27

 (refer to 

Det. 

J-J

) using fine file, jigsaw or razor saw.

Glue the rear tailplane seat (balsa 3 mm – 9x12 mm) 

39 

to the fuselage. Bevel it slightly to match the horizontal 

tailplane bottom side.

Insert and glue the main ballast 

32

 into the nose ope-

ning. Glue the side covers 

33

 in place matching the 

outline of the fuselage. Glue the cross-brace 

38

 (balsa 

6x8x20 mm) between the tail boom sticks 

23

. Glue the 

skid 

40

 in place.

Doping and Tissue Covering

Lightly sand the entire airframe with the fine sand pa-

per. Before the frames are covered, all EXTERNAL sur-

faces MUST be primed with the adhesive dope (diluted 

at least 1:1 with the thinner; the dope must have the 

viscosity of water - never use the dope unthinned!). 

Use a soft flat brush to apply the dope and, when dry, 

lightly sand all doped surfaces with the fine sandpa-

per. Apply the second coat, sand lightly again.

Sheets of the Vlies covering tissue are supplied in the 

kit. You can glue it to the airframe using water thinned 

white glue or adhesive dope. Always align the „grain“ 

of the tissue the long way - from tip to tip of the wing or 

horizontal tailplane. The tissue sheets supplied in the 

kit have been already pre-cut to the correct size.

Horizontal Tailplane:

 If you are new to the dope and 

tissue business, you should start with the horizontal 

tailplane in order to gain the skills on smaller part of 

your model featuring no curves. Apply the thinned 

white glue or adhesive dope around the external ed-

ges of the lower side of the tailplane and to the ribs 

and centre plate; IMMEDIATELY set the tissue in positi-

on and smooth the edges with finger tips before it has 

a chance to dry. Cut the tissue all around the outline of 

the tailplane leaving it 4-5 mm over size. Bend and glue 

with thinned white glue or adhesive dope the overla-

pping tissue around the entire tailplane.

Cover the upper side of the tailplane in the same ma-

nner. Bend and glue with thinned white glue or ad-

hesive dope the overlapping tissue around the entire 

tailplane.

Wing:

 Prepare four pieces of the tissue (do not forget 

the upper sheets are wider due to the airfoil camber). 

Again, start with the bottom side of one wing half – 

apply the glue/dope to the leading and trailing edges 

and all ribs, attach the tissue and smooth the edges 

with finger tips. Then proceed to the bottom of the 

other wing half. Cut the tissue all around the outline 

of the wing leaving it 4-5 mm over size. Bend and glue 

with thinned white glue or adhesive dope the overla-

pping tissue around edges of the entire wing.

Cover the upper side of the wing in the same manner – 

apply thinned white glue/adhesive dope to the trailing 

and leading edges, main spar and ribs. You will have 

to cut the tissue in short 4-8 mm portions around the 

wing tip in order to follow the curve of the tip.

Summary of Contents for DINGO

Page 1: ...Instruction Manual N vod ke stavb Bauanleitung DINGO A3 Glider V tro A3 A3 Segler...

Page 2: ...avbu stav jte v e pevn a spolehliv Pou ijte odpov daj c n ad p slu enstv a dal vybaven kter je v prvot dn m stavu spr vn instalujte v echny sti modelu a model kontrolujte p ed prvn m a ka d m dal m le...

Page 3: ...tions Pin down the pre shaped balsa leading edge 2 and the trailing edge 3 please note there is left and right one match the notches to the plan Glue the balsa ribs 1 in place Glue the balsa root rib...

Page 4: ...when looking from the nose to the tail and also square to the longitudinal axis of the fu selage when looking from above Cut 1 5 mm notches for the rubber band in the spruce stick 27 refer to Det J J...

Page 5: ...ulder Run as fast as necessary to achieve steady climbing rate of your model the model should climb straight forward at steady rate in a nice arc The stronger the wind the slower you might run If the...

Page 6: ...V 8 2 Gusset 6 8 Small Parts Bag C Wing Rib 1 20 Small Parts Bag D Balsa Stick 3x5x59 mm 14 8 Balsa Stick 3x5x69 mm 15 2 Balsa Centre Plate 3x20x59 mm 12 1 Bamboo Dowel 2 5x40mm 16 1 have to slow dow...

Page 7: ...ehce p i pendlete tenk mi pendl ky licho b n kovou n b nou li tu 2 a balsovou odtokovou li tu 3 s vybrou en mi dr kami pro ebra pozor je lev a prav i te se podle dr ek Mezi n b nou a odtokovou li tu k...

Page 8: ...o e nalepte ze shora na li ty trupu do v ezu ve svisl ocasn plo e Je nutno kontrolovat aby lo e VOP bylo p ilepeno tak aby p i pohledu zep edu byla VOP polo en na lo e kolm na boky hlavice trupu a p i...

Page 9: ...o dku podkl dejte VOP vzadu pod poutac m kol kem tenk mi podlo kami tak dlouho a model plynule klou e k zemi V p pad e model po hodu houpe naopak zadn podlo ku pod v kovkou 39 sni te Po zaklouz n sm r...

Page 10: ...ky 30 1 Poutac kol k k dla 3x30 mm 35 1 Poutac kol k v kovky 2 5x22 mm 34 1 Zadn balsov podlo ka VOP 3x9x12 mm 39 1 P ekli kov podlo ka VOP tl 1 25x15 mm 26 1 Smrkov li ta podlo ky VOP 3x5x25 mm 27 1...

Page 11: ...stellung des entsprechenden Teils des Modells auf die exakte L nge geschnitten geschliffen Fl gel Beide Fl gelh lften sind auf der Bauskizze gezeichnet so dass Sie sie gleichzeitig bauen k nnen wenn S...

Page 12: ...ckt werden und im hinteren Teil des Rumpf kopfes die Fl gelbefestigung ber hren Zwischen die beiden Leisten des Leitwerkstr gers 23 kleben Sie den Balsastreifen 24 3x8x75 mm tragen Sie den Kleb stoff...

Page 13: ...der schon bekannten Weise ab biegen Sie es um die Kante und kleben lackieren Sie es zur Konstruktion Der Rumpf muss nicht bespannt werden Die Fl gel bespannung und das H henleitwerk kann man dann mit...

Page 14: ...e beide gegen den Wind der Helfer l sst das Modell nach einigen Schritten los Laufen Sie in ei nem flotten Tempo gegen den Wind und beobachten Sie das Modell st ndig mit einem Blick ber die Schul ter...

Page 15: ...2 mm 34 1 Hintere Balsa Platte H hen leitwerk 3x9x12 mm 39 1 Sperrholz Platte H hen leitwerk 1 mm dick 25x15 mm 26 1 Fichtenleiste der Platte H hen leitwerk 3x5x25 mm 27 1 Rumpfstrebe Balsa 6x8x20 mm...

Page 16: ...info kavanrc com DE CZ 49 8374 259 2696 EN CZ 420 463 358 712 www kavanrc com Made in the Czech Republic Vyrobeno v esk republice Hergestellt in der Tschechischen Republik...

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