INCOMPLETE INCINERATION
Can be any one of several causes:
1. Start button not pushed after each use.
2. Ashpan too full. Empty more often.
(Empty when ash is no more than 1/2 inch deep.)
3. Too many people using toilet.
4. Burn cycle too short. Re-set timer.
ODOR WITHIN ROOM
Can be any one of several causes:
1.
Failure to use bowl liner each and every
time or careless use of liner.
2. Solids not completely incinerated. Run extra
cycles or add time to timer.
3. Ashpan too full. Empty more often.
(Empty when ash is no more than
1/2 inch deep.)
4. Back-drafting. Use back-draft preventer
on horizontal vent-line or run the vent
vertically with a rain cap at the top.
ODOR OUTSIDE
Causes same as above, plus:
1. Catalyst port perforations are clogged.
Clean chamber wall behind heater coil with
small brush.
2. Catalyst has “set”. Stir with small rod to
loosen. (See catalyst p. 11.)
3. Incinerator lid hanging open, allowing odor
to escape.
RESIDUE BLACK, LIKE CHARCOAL
Ash should be gray. Black lumps
means insufficient air is being drawn into
chamber. There may also be soot around ash-
pan lip at front and on inside of ashpan panel.
Remove ashpan and use small brush to clean
perforations in inner incinerator wall back of
heating coils.
BLOWER, HEATER WON’T
STAY
ON
If timer, blower and heater come on when
start button is pushed but turn off as soon as
start button is released, REPLACE TIMER.
BLOWER STOPS AT END
OF HEATING CYCLE
Blower should be on from 10 to 45 minutes
after
heater cuts off. Unplug toilet, remove
access panel, inspect, tighten any loose wires.
REPLACE BLOWER THERMOSTAT.
BLOWER DOES NOT OPERATE
Blower must come on immediately when start
button is pushed and should not stop while
heater is on. If not, check blower wheel to be
sure it’s not binding. Listen to blower motor
for a humming sound (like motor is trying to
start). This would indicate bad motor
bearings. REPLACE BLOWER MOTOR
BLOWER OFF & ON AT CYCLE END
It is normal for blower to stop for 4 or 5
minutes, then start again for a few minutes, a
couple of times at end of cycle. If, however,
blower stops and starts rapidly, blower (ITS)
thermostat is faulty. REPLACE ITS
THERMOSTAT
BOWL HANGS OPEN:
PEDAL WON’T RETURN
1. Closing mechanism may be out of
adjustment.
2. Foot pedal goes too far down and
locks up. Place block under foot pedal
to prevent excess travel.
EXCESSIVE NOISE, VIBRATION
CLEAN OR REPLACE BLOWER WHEEL.
TIMER & TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER
THE KEY TO TROUBLESHOOTING
Timer limits heating cycle, Controller limits
heater temperature. Timer and temperature
controller are within control box in upper right
corner of housing, accessible with top removed.
Timer has two lights:
green
and
red
.
Temperature controller has one
red
light. A
steady green light
on timer indicates unit has
power and is ready for operation. When start
button is pushed,
green light begins blinking
and the
red
light comes on and stays on for a
timed interval, during which time temperature
controller is activated and its
red
light is on.
Controller
red
light means that the relay is
activated and supplying power to heater.
Controller
red
light stays on until timer cuts off
after the timed interval, or heater reaches
maximum allowed temperature and thermocouple
signals controller to open relay. In actual
operation, when timer reaches end of timed
interval, its
red
light goes off, and
blinking
green light turns steady
again. During the
TIMER ADJUSTMENT:
(See Fig. 8.)
Timer dial reads 0 to 3 hrs. Timer pointer is set
to 1 hour.
If INCINOLET
is used
primarily
for
solids deposits in rapid succession and
incineration is incomplete, move pointer to 1.5-2.0
hrs. If used throughout the day, both for urine
and solids, timer would be best set at 1 to 1-1/2 hr.
To adjust timer, remove top of toilet and turn dial so
timer reads new setting. (See p. 7.) Replace top.
DON’T MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENT
REQUIRING SCREWDRIVER.
8
TROUBLESHOOTING
BLOWER COMES ON BUT
HEATER DOESN’T HEAT
Remove top, examine timer and controller as
above. If both timer and controller lights are
on, then heater has failed. To verify, remove
access panel, measure voltage directly across
heater terminals, not from terminal to ground.
If voltage appears, REPLACE HEATER. If
no voltage appears, check circuit further.
TIMER LIGHTS WORK BUT
CONTROLLER RED LIGHT IS
NOT
ON
Test thermocouple. Unplug toilet, remove
side access panel. Remove wire nuts from
thermocouple leads (#6 & #7). Twist the gray
and purple wires together, then plug unit in
and push start button. If controller red light
comes on, REPLACE THERMOCOUPLE.
CIRCUIT BREAKER OPENS WHEN
START BUTTON IS PUSHED
This indicates heater may be shorted to
ground. Unplug toilet, remove access panel.
Remove orange lead wires to heater terminals.
Plug toilet in, push start button. If blower
comes on and circuit breaker does not open,
heater is shorted. REPLACE HEATER.
Unplug toilet, examine all wiring which might
be grounded by touching housing. REPLACE
OR TAPE ANY BARE WIRES.
NOTHING COMES ON, BUT TIMER
GREEN LIGHT IS ON
Inspect timer lights as you push start button.
Red lights should come on, green light should
begin blinking. If not, CHECK START
SWITCH OR REPLACE TIMER.
TIMER
CONTROLLER
Fig. 8
Unplug toilet before doing repairs. Shock hazard present when toilet is plugged in for testing.
timed interval, contrller shows current temperture
of heater coil. To see what contoller is set to, push
mode key which toggles between actual and set
temperatures. Setting is 1030 degrees f. for 1800-
watt toilets, 996 degrees f. for 3500-watt toilets.
If “FFF” shows on face of controller, replace
thermocouple. DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS.
1030
