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Check that your cranks are tight after the first 50 miles of riding. These should be fastened firmly to the
bottom bracket, with no play. Even a small amount of movement will cause the joint between the spindle and
the hole in the crank to wear, resulting eventually in damage to the chainset.
The rear derailleur idlers tend to collect oil and dirt. Clean them with a dry rag. If they squeak, they can be
disassembled and greased. When you lubricate your chain, put a drop of light oil on the moving pivots of the
derailleur; they will last much longer.
The more you ride your trike, the more used you become to the sounds it makes. If you notice any change in
the sound your trike makes, check it carefully; it may be a sign of something needing attention.
5.7 The frame
The main cruciform and rear section of your ICE trike is powder-coated, a baked-on finish that is both tough
and beautiful. It is possible to damage the coating, particularly if you scrape the trike over road obstacles. If
this happens, touch-up paint is available from ICE to repair the damage. Lightly abrade the scrape with fine
sandpaper, cover the exposed metal with regular metal primer, and then apply the coloured touch-up paint.
The front boom of your ICE trikes are anodized and powder-coated. They require little maintenance except
for regular cleaning.
Mud, rain, road salt, salt air, and sweat can all affect the finish of your trike. Fitting mudguards will help to
keep road dirt off your trike.
Regular cleaning and corrosion protection should be a part of your maintenance routine. We recommend
hand washing your trike with warm soapy water and a rag or soft brush. Never use abrasive cleaners or
solvents on the powder-coated finish. Rinse well and dry after, and then lubricate the chain.
Do not clean your trike using a pressure washer, as the water will force its way into bearings, removing the
grease and causing corrosion.
Keeping the frame dry and clean will keep the coating looking its best for years to come.
If you need to clean the seat mesh, it should be hand-washed in warm soapy water, rinsed well, and hung up
to dry. Do not tumble dry!
After the first 50 or 100 miles, check the steering components for signs of looseness. The headset bearings
may need to be gently tightened after they have bedded in, and the axles should be checked for tightness as
well.
After the first ride or two, the clamp bolts should be checked to ensure they are tight.
5.8 Tyres, tubes, & wheels
Tyres
Quality tyres are vital for good traction and control while accelerating, turning and braking. Each brand of tyre
has its own individual mix of puncture protection, rolling resistance, pressure rating, and durability. Finding
the one that suits your riding style best is the challenge. Tyres should always be inflated according to the
range marked on the sidewall, never above the maximum recommended, and they should be checked
regularly. Worn tyres should be replaced. Trikes often run with slightly reduced pressure, as the load is
distributed across three tyres, not two. Lower pressure results in a more comfortable ride, but at the expense
of higher rolling resistance. Balloon tyres are now available that combine relatively low rolling resistance,
puncture protection, and a smooth ride; they are well worth considering. Your ICE trike has been designed to
allow these larger tyres to be fitted.
Appendix C has a conversion table for pressure in PSI and Bar.
Tubes & Punctures
Always use good quality inner tubes on your trike. It is easiest to carry a spare inner tube with you, and
change it if you should be unlucky enough to have a puncture. Front punctures are fairly easy to mend, as the
tyre can be removed without taking the wheel off the bike. You may find it easier to work on the front wheel if
you put the trike on its side first. Repairing a rear wheel puncture is no different from any other cycle.
