6
0720iNET FAQ
* The discharge function
is supposed to be 10A Max, but when I discharged my pack I got less. Why?
Both charge and discharge functions are limited by both watts and amperage;
whichever comes first
.
Charge: 250W and 20A maxes
(500W when 2xNET are in SYNC mode)
Discharge: 80W and 10A
(160W when 2xNET are in SYNC mode)
- For example, if you are
discharging
a pack which starts at
10V
, the initial max current(A) would be: 80W/10V=8A
(note that as the battery voltage drops during discharge, current may rise)
- Or if
charging
a pack which starts at 10V, then current calculation would be: 250W/10V=25A, BUT current is limited to
20A, so the absolute max you could get will be 20A, since the current limit is reached before wattage limit…
(Lithium batteries use CC/CV charge curves, so current will fall as the battery becomes more charged.)
* Why does the charger not give the END buzzer
(or FLAT CHECK error), even though the pack has been attached for a
long time? (I have checked and buzzer is set ON)
- LIPO/LiFePO4: Most likely, you have set a charge rate lower than 1C, and the charger cannot terminate CC/CV as required
current at that point is too low. Assuming your battery is of decent quality and condition (if not, do NOT charge it!) there is NO
reason to charge at rates below 1C. Charge again at 1C and observe results. Note also that END buzzer will NOT sound until the
charger achieves target cell balance. For badly out-of-balance packs or large capacity packs, this could take up to an hour.
- NiCd/NiMH: Same answer as Lipo/LifePO4 above (for a different reason). Try charging at a higher rate. We have found that
many NiMH packs on the market today are poorly made, and do not signal delta-v (indicating end charge) properly when
charged at low rates, and sometimes even at higher rates. Try setting delta-v in your charger menu to a lower value. Try
charging at a higher rate (check battery for over-temp!). If nothing works, get a pack of cells from a known quality brand (Sanyo,
GP, etc) and test your charger.
* Why do I see “0” current flowing
during charge at regular intervals? Is it a “Pulse” charger?
No, the 0720i simply pauses charging at intervals in order to make extremely accurate readings of cell/pack condition.
Troubleshooting
(1) Ensure that the battery you are trying to charge and the settings on the EOS 0720i NET match. Battery type (such as NiMH
or LiPo), battery capacity, number of cells (charge voltage), and charge rate must all be correct.
(2) Check that the input cable and output cables:
*Have proper connectors and are in good condition *Are not frayed, worn, cut, or damaged
*Are the proper gauge (output 2.5mm, 14ga) *Are proper length <= 30cm (12”) on output side
(3) Attach the charger input connectors to a 12V automotive battery that is in good condition and fully charged. Wiggle the
terminal clips into the battery posts to insure that you have a good connection. Many charger problems are due to poor quality
or inadequate switching AC-DC power supplies, so this test is necessary to eliminate those from the list of suspects.
(4) Try another battery for charging. If the RC battery is in poor condition,
over discharged
, or in some other way defective,
the charger may correctly refuse to charge it based on safety algorithms.
(5) Try another RC battery type. For example switch to a NiMH battery if you are failing to charge Lithium types. Success with
one type but failure with another generally indicates that the charger is working properly. The failing battery type is almost
certainly in poor condition, wired incorrectly, or the charger may be improperly set.
(6) Contact your dealer with full details and description of the problem, including the type of input power source, RC battery type
and cell count, and history of the charger - that is, has the charger been working properly before, or failed from new condition?
(7) I have an OUTPUT CIRCUIT ERROR
* Be sure that your pack balance connector type, polarity, and wiring system matches the multi-adapter attached to the charger.
* Carefully inspect pack connector, balance wire harness and Multi-Adapter for damage, wear, etc. If OK, then:
* Spray all connectors (including the one in charger) with de-oxide contact spray, then insert-remove connectors several times,
then spray one last time and re-connect.
* Use a solid DC PS or fully charged CAR battery for Input power (poor power supplies cause MANY problems…)
* Test charger using a lithium battery known to be in good condition.
* Try a different brand battery (preferably with different balance connector and multi-adapter type)
8) My LCD does not light, or lights but no characters are visible.
In most cases this happens when a charger has been dropped, or suffered some heavy vibration. The ribbon cable between LCD
unit and charger can become loose. Have your dealer open the charger and re-seat the ribbon cable. If this does not fix it, you
may need to have the LCD unit replaced by your dealer.
Enjoy the Power!
The Hyperion Team
WARRANTY
HYPERION Chargers are guaranteed to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one calendar year from date of purchase. Your selling dealer is
your first point of contact for warranty issues. Return postage costs are the responsibility of the user in all cases. Submit copy of original receipt with the return.
Damage due to physical shock (dropping on the floor, etc), connection errors due to unauthorized configurations [two batteries attached to a single port, for example]
inappropriate power supply [automotive battery charger, etc!], water, moisture, and humidity are specifically NOT covered by warranty. It is well to carefully check your
charger before making a return, as problems in setup, cabling, batteries, or power supply are much more common than defects in the charger.
