Hunter H33, Operator'S Manual, Page: 189 / 214

Hunter 33 • Getting Underway
13.5
fully adjusting some tension on the sheet to keep the sail
taught.
2. Install the out haul line in the boom with the messenger
line provided and lead from the sheave at the back of the
boom through the lower cringle at the back of the sail and
aft to the end of the casting.
3. Install reefing lines in the boom with the messenger
line provided and lead from the sheave through the rel-
evant cringle at the back of the sail and then down to the
sliding eye on the bottom of the boom. Pull enough slack
into the reef line so that the sail can be fully raised unim-
peded by the reef lines. Tie the mainsail onto the boom
with the sail ties provided.
4. Install the jib sheet onto the jib and lead the sheets
inside the shrouds to the lead blocks on the cabin top and
aft to the jams or winches on the house top. Tie figure
eight knots in the end of the sheets to prevent them from
running back through the jams.
5. Raise and unfurl sails, beginning with the main and
then the jib while powering into the wind. Once each
halyard, is tensioned by the winch, the halyard can be
pushed down into its respective rope clutches and the
halyard removed from the winch, freeing the winch for the
next halyard or sheet. However, care should be taken not
to inadvertently open the rope clutches, since the sails
will lower rapidly if this is done. When the sails are raised,
the boat can be laid off and the engine turned off.
6. Once the main is sheeted in and you are sailing
upwind, confirm the main topping lift position. The main
should be capable of sheeting in hard without the topping
lift being tight. With the main sheeted in hard, the topping
lift should have eight to ten inches of sag and should be
adjusted accordingly.
7. After a day of sailing, the sails should be lowered /
furled in while again powering into the wind, with the jib
furled in first and then by lowering the main. Protect your
sails by covering them with the lazyjack sailcover or furl-
ing them completely up.
13.3.2 Tuning the B&R Rig
The easiest method for tuning the B&R rig is to perform
step one as follows before the mast is stepped, with it
lying aft side down on two sawhorses. Begin with all rig-
ging slack. If the mast is already stepped, loosen all the
rigging, and then proceed to step one.
1. Start with all the rigging slack. Then induce the mast
bend by tightening the reverse diagonals (diamonds).
Measure the band by tensioning a line or the main hal-
yard between the masthead and the gooseneck. The
maximum amount of bend should be no more than 1%
of the length of “P” for the standard rig and no more than
2” (50mm) for the furling mast. Measured perpendicular
from the aft face of the mast to the halyard at the deepest
part of the bend. It can be less than that based on the sail
shape and your own preference. The bend should also
be evenly distributed along the mast to give a smooth
shape. Keep in mind that bending a furling mast may
make it more difficult to furl and will not do much to flat-
ten the sail as in a standard rig. It is very important that
the mast also be straight from side to side at this time.
Tighten or loosen the reverse diagonals to achieve this.
2. Step the mast with all shrouds attached but with the
turnbuckles completely loosened (if the mast was not
already stepped).
3. Attach the jib halyard to a cleat on the bow to support
the mast in a raked position (the masthead should be
about 2’-0” {6cm} behind the step). Attach the verticals
and tighten them until you can just see the hole for the
cotter pin in the turnbuckle. Tighten the jib halyard until
you can attach the forestay. At this point, the masthead
should be raked so that a weight hung on the main hal-
yard hangs about 1’ behind the mast step.
4. Use the main halyard to check that the mast is cen-
tered from side to side. Pull it tight and mark the halyard
next to the verticals chainplate. Now do the same in
the other side to see if the marks line up. If not, tighten
and/or loosen the verticals until the marks line up. Once
the masthead is centered, begin tightening the verticals
until the turnbuckles are approximately half closed. While
tightening the verticals, you may notice the bend in the
mast increasing. Now you can tighten the lowers, which
will tend to straighten the lower part of the mast. Be sure
to tighten port and starboard sides evenly.
5. Now you should tighten the headstay until it is approxi-
mately half closed as well. This should induce the approx-
imate amount of headstay tension. Never use anything
more than a pair of wrenches to tighten your rigging. If
you use an extended piece of pipe on the handle of a
wrench, you can over-tighten the rigging and do damage
to the mast or rigging.
6. On the Hunter, it is necessary to go up the mast in a
Bosun’s Chair to tighten the number 2 diagonal shroud
(D2 or intermediate shroud). Always use caution when
“going aloft”. You should always use a mountain climbing