until it can be closed without significantly
affecting how well the kindling is burning.
After about six or seven minutes you can then
add some wood...
2 The First Refuel Phase
Air Control:
Fully open
Stove Door:
Closed
Fuel Load:
3 or 4 smaller logs (B)
Once the embers are starting to glow and the
flames starts to calm down the first refuel can
take place. For this use three or four slightly
thicker pieces of wood (B) about 25 to 50mm
across – thicker than the kindling, but smaller
than the main refuelling wood to be used in
the next phase. If unnecessarily large pieces of
wood are placed on the embers at this stage
and do not ignite quickly there is a risk that
the firebox will cool down and the wood will
start to smoke and it will actually take much
longer to get the fire going.
In approximately 7 to 10 minutes you can
then add the larger logs during the main firing.
3 The Main Firing Phase
Air control
Adjust to suit
Stove Door
This remains closed
Fuel Load:
2 or 3 main logs (C)
Once the embers of the first refuel phase are
glowing then these can be evenly spread with
a poker or companion tool and the main
refuelling wood can be quickly set. Always use
a heat resistant gauntlet or tongs to precisely
position the logs. Do not throw them into
the firechamber as this could damage the
vermiculite panels or stove glass. Always load
the larger logs on to a bed of hot embers.
A single dense piece of wood or log will
not burn as well as 2 or 3 smaller logs of
equivalent mass. The more contact the wood
has with each other piece, the hotter the
embers will be. 3 or 4 logs tightly packed to
each other will burn for longer but at a lower
temperature than loosely criss-crossed logs.
Approximately 0.50kg of logs (one or two)
can be added at this stage. Be careful not
to add too many logs as they may ‘smother’
the fire. Avoid setting the ends of the logs
pointing towards the glass as this can cause
staining which the airwash may not remove.
Always load on to a bed of hot embers.
If the log surface is predominately black and /
or the flames are lacklustre then there is still
some time to go before the stove is operating
at full temperature. Only reduce the air supply
(slide left) when all of the wood is burning
brightly and the surface of the logs are a
light ash grey colour. The lighter the grey is
then the better the wood is burning which
means the fire- chamber is operating efficiently
and is now hot enough to allow you to adjust
the flame pattern and heat output to suit
your requirements. This will also allow you to
control fuel usage.
We recommend using a flue temperature
gauge as it will show you precisely when you
are burning too low (which causes creosote)
or too high (which could damage the stove).
Getting the balance right between a gently
burning stove and one that is burning too
slow, creating smoke and causing the airwash
to fail and consequently the glass to stain is
very much a matter of trial and error. If you
are burning well-seasoned wood then a quick
‘blast’ of the stove at ‘full throttle’, with the
air fully open, should quickly burn off any
deposits left from any slower burning phase.
Never leave the stove unattended after refuelling
until the flames are well established.
4 Refuelling
Air control
Fully open, then adjust to suit
Stove Door
This remains closed
Fuel Load:
2 or 3 main logs (C)
For best results just before you refuel, fully
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