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VITAE FS V2
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the ash falls into it.
DO NOT allow ash to build up underneath the bed as this may cause damage to the
grate. Never operate the stove without the ashpan in place.
6.2 Cleaning
Glass:
Despite the advanced air wash system provided, the glass will still need cleaning from time to time
depending on the fuel quality and burning rates used. Never clean glass when the stove is hot. Always use
stove glass cleaner or ceramic hob cleaner, which is available from your stove retailer. As an alternative, use
a wet cloth with some of the wood ash if burning wood but be very careful to use very clean ash so as not to
scratch the glass.
Outer body:
The outer body simply needs to be dusted from time to time. DO NOT use any kind of
furniture polish or cleaning agent other than your stove suppliers recommended paint.
Inner firebox:
Brush the inside of the firebox clean from time to time to check the integrity of the plates
and liners etc. It is not normally necessary to re-paint inside the firebox due to the high temperatures that
mean that the paint does not have much effect before being burnt off. Steel and vermiculite board liners are
resilient firebox materials and will give reliable service without major cleaning or work on the firebox. The
liner boards may require replacement fairly regularly depending upon fuels and the type of usage
experienced. Lining boards are not covered by warranty, as they are a wearing consumable part.
Baffle:
It is essential to check the top of the baffle for build up of soot and ash regularly when in use and
after a long period of no use. From time to time remove the baffle if necessary to ensure that the flue way
entrance is clear.
6.3 Fuels
Wood
Burn only seasoned timber products with a moisture content of less than 20%. To obtain this moisture
content allow cut wood to dry for at least 12-18 months.
Do not burn construction timber, treated of
painted wood, manufactured board or pallets.
Solid Fuel
Burn only manufactured smokeless fuels listed as suitable for use in a closed appliance.
Do not burn
anthracite, “petro-coke” or other petroleum based fuels as this will invalidate the warranty.
6.4 Notes on Wood burning
With a full load of wood, the stove will need to be refuelled approximately every 0.75 hours depending on
burn rate. Wood can be stacked in the stove but care must be taken that logs do not touch the baffle. Do not
stack fuel above the level of the tertiary air inlets at the back of the stove.
Always make sure that flames are visible above the wood after re-fuelling for cleanest burning. Open the air
wash full for 1 to 2 minutes to achieve full flames above the fuel. Carefully adjusting the secondary air
controls and fuel load will then control the burn rate of the stove. Wood burns most efficiently with the
primary air controls closed and the secondary (air wash) controls open about 25%, this setting will give the
stoves nominal output.
See also:
section entitled ‘Lighting the Stove’.
Wood burns best on a bed of ash and it is therefore only necessary to remove surplus ash from the stove
occasionally
. If the grate is completely clear, place a few handfuls of ash into the slots in the grate to
help the firebed build up.
Burn only dry, well-seasoned wood, which should have been cut, split and stacked - under protection from
rain - for at least 12-24 months with free air movement around the sides of the stack to enable it to dry out.
Burning wet or unseasoned wood will create tar deposits in the stove and chimney and will not produce a
satisfactory heat output.
Wood that is not properly dry (‘dry’ is considered to be less than 20% internal
moisture content) uses up energy from the burn process to evaporate the water inside the wood thus
creating very poor conditions for combustion
. The main cause of burning problems with wood stoves is
due to excessively damp wood. Wood can appear perfectly dry on the outside but still contain 40-50% water
on the inside. A moisture meter can be purchased from some stove and equipment suppliers if you wish to
check your wood source is correct.
