HamGadgets ID-O-Matic III, Assembly, Setup And Use Manual

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2014-01-17 ID-O-Matic III 29
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Install rectifier diodes D1 and D2. These are the larger, black plastic
bodied diodes. Again, make sure the banded end of the diode is inside the
circle marked on the PCB.
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Install the two potentiometers , marked ID VOL and RCV VOL.
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Install the voltage regulator VREG. Make sure the flat side of the voltage regulator is
facing the right way, as shown on the circuit bard marking.
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Install transistors Q1-Q5, again making sure the flat side is installed facing the right way.
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Install the LED . Note that one lead has a square corner just below the LED body, and
one has an angled bend. The marking on the board shows which way to install the LED.
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Install the 100 µF electrolytic capacitors . These parts are polarity sensitive, so make
SURE that each one has the longer lead in the hole marked “+” on the circuit board. Your
PC board (if it’s Rev C) may have locations for five electrolytic capacitors, but
only four
(C4, C6, C7 and C12) will be installed . Leave capacitor C10 off the board, if you have a
location marked C10. In its place, use a piece of cut-off component lead to jumper across
the two solder pads for C10.
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If your kit has 3.3 µF electrolytic capacitors, install them in locations C1 and C2. As with
the other polarized capacitors, make sure that each one has the longer lead in the hole
marked “+” on the circuit board.
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Install the terminal block , making sure that the open holes for the wires faces out from
the edge of the board. If you have two terminal blocks (10- and 2-position), insert them
both into the board before soldering. It can be a bit of a tight fit if you don’t.
Once all the parts have been soldered to the board, it’s time to do some preliminary checks
before installing the processor. Connect your ID-O-Matic III board to a DC power supply –
ground to TB1 terminal 1, positive to TB1 terminal 2. Switch on the power and check the
voltage at the “+” and “-” pads of the voice recorder board terminals – the ones marked “VM”
near the USB connector. You should see between 3 and 3.4 VDC. If this checks out OK,
proceed to the next step.
The PIC microcontroller IC comes pre-programmed and ready to run. The pins are spread out a
little. In order to be able to insert it into the IC socket more easily, it’s a good idea to straighten
the pins. We want the two sides parallel with each other, and at a right angle with the body of
the IC. I have found it easiest to just “roll” the IC on a table top, holding the body of the chip
firmly. Once you have the pins aligned, carefully insert the microcontroller IC into the socket.
Make sure the notched end of the IC aligns with the notched end of the socket, and that both are
on the end closest to the edge of the board (pointing away from the USB connector).