ADDING AN AUXILIARY FENCE TO THE MITER GAUGE
To ensure a true 90° crosscut, especially with longer pieces of wood
that need more support than the narrow miter gauge head can
provide, an auxiliary wood fence can be attached.
Make sure the wood for the fence is straight, not bowed. It should
be about 2 inches wide and extend about 12 inches from either
side of the miter head. Drill 2 holes in the wood corresponding to
those on the miter head and use bolts and nuts to secure the wood
fence to the head,
.
To use the miter gauge with an auxiliary fence, first notch the fence with the saw blade a bit higher than the work-
piece,
. Measure and draw a cutline on your wood,
, then place it on the miter fence. Position your cutline
against the notch. Turn on the saw, slide the work up until it is cut through (but don’t cut off the fence).
Marking Wood.
If you measure a cut for 24 inches, line up the blade on the waste side of the mark. Don’t cut
through the middle of the measurement line or you’ll reduce your desired board length by half the width of the saw
blade! For accurate work, don’t mark your cut with a fat pencil line,
. A narrow dash, with a sharp pencil point is
best,
. Encircle the dash so you’ll find it again and add a small X to indicate the waste or cut-off side
. Pencils,
like saw blades, have thickness. When squaring off from the cut mark, align your square to allow for pencil clear-
ance, which will be about 1/16” away from the drawing edge of the square,
.
FRONT VIEW
This operation is the same as cross cutting, except the
miter gauge is set to an angle other than 0. Hold the work
piece firmly against the miter gauge and feed the work
piece slowly into the blade to prevent it from moving
during the cut.
COMPOUND MITERING
This is a combination of bevel cross cutting and mitering. It is infrequently used. Follow instructions for both bevel cut-
ting and mitering.
LARGER VIEW