16
FGi.FPi.FXi
Issue
12 10/17
6.11.
Re-fuelling
When burning Maxibrite the fire will begin to die down with a significant amount of white ash
showing amongst the fuel. Gently run a poker through the fire bed to remove most of the ash
into the ashpan. Empty the ashpan if it is nearly full and then re-fuel with a good load of
briquettes. The fuel load should initially be level with the top of the fuel retainer and not above
the rear firebox liner. Whilst approval test cycles are 1 or 2 hours, a stove burning Maxibrite
may be kept in overnight easily under normal conditions.
When burning wood, the fire will die down as the fuel is consumed. When the flames disappear
and the remainder is breaking down into glowing embers it is an appropriate time to consider
re-fuelling. Generally unless the firebox and firebed has cooled down and it is being revived up
to working temperature then it’s not appropriate to re-fuel when the logs are still flaming
fiercely. NOTE: If the flames disappear and there are still lumps of solid wood left this indicates
excessive internal moisture in the wood, too low a firebox temperature (running too cool), too
small a fuel load or insufficient air supply/flue draught.
NOTE: To eliminate unwanted smoke emission, after loading new logs on to the fire, open the
air wash control up fully for 3 - 5 minutes or until the logs are well blackened all over to boost
the fire and get flames issuing from the top of the fuel as soon as possible. Move the door ajar
for a time if necessary to establish flames. When flames are well established, reduce the air
wash to the running setting required. Burning without flames above the fuel will create
unnecessary smoke. Do not load fuel above the rear firebrick at the back of the firebox.
Loading 1 or 2 medium-large sized logs weighing 1-2kg DRY will produce a good output with
reasonable burn time. Small logs will burn up quicker producing a high output and more
emissions for a short time, and a large log will take longer to burn and produce less output and
less emissions over a given time. These appliances are approved for intermittent operation on
wood (typically 0.75 to 1.5 hour burn cycles) although longer burn times can be achieved by
fully loading the firebox, getting the fuel burning well and then shutting the air controls right
down (see below). This will produce a long but smoky/tarry burn (not recommended). The fire
will then need reviving by first opening the air controls and then using small pieces of wood and
plenty of air to get flames issuing from the wood again. The glass will get dirty if closing the air
wash control past the point where flames above the logs disappear – this is quite normal. Never
load fuel above the rear firebrick or allow it to spill onto the glass.
6.12.
Shutting Down
The stove will normally shut down by itself as the fuel is consumed so there is no need to close
the air control towards the end of the burn. In order to shut down the stove for other reasons,
close the primary air controls (if open), then close the secondary air control. If the controls are
left in this position, the fire will eventually go out but it will also cause the glass to blacken/grey
out as the fire dies down. If you want to revive the fire it is recommended that the secondary air
controls are opened fully first followed by the primary air control until revived.
Warning! - The stove will remain very hot for a considerable time after the fire has died down
or been extinguished.
6.13.
Shut down for prolonged periods
If the stove is to be left unused for a prolonged period of time then it should be given a
thorough clean to remove ash and unburned fuel residues. To enable a good flow of air through
the appliance to reduce condensation and subsequent corrosion damage, leave the air controls
fully open. It is important that the flue connection, any appliance baffles or throat plates and
the chimney are swept prior to lighting up after a prolonged shutdown period.
