FARRIER MARINE
Page 31
Copyright © 2012 By Farrier Marine
TECHNICAL NOTES
WINCH LINE
The trailer winch line should be regularly replaced.
This can wear and is under a high strain when lifting the
mast. A breakage here could be dangerous, and it is
always advisable to stand clear of the line while lifting the
mast. Also, frequently check the trailer winch line when
on a long trip.
SPRING RETAINING CLIPS
CAUTION
: The spring retaining clips as can be used
on the Turnbuckle clevis pins should be regularly checked
to ensure they will still 'clip' fit on the clevis pin. Replace
if they have lost their spring and become loose, otherwise
you could lose your mast.
These spring clips have been used successfully for
over 20 years and are intended as a convenient 'quick rig'
feature. They are not as secure as a properly fitted cotter
pin, and if doubts exist on their use then a cotter pin or
circular ring should be used instead, and some are
usually included in the Toolbox. However these rings/
pins will increase rigging time, and the final decision in
this regard is for the owner.
LAUNCHING
If immersing the trailer to the bend in the frame will still
not let you free the boat, be careful; a few inches more
can have your boat drifting away, so have a bow line
secured.
HOISTING MAINSAIL
If you find this is tight going up or down (a not
uncommon problem with full batten boltrope mains),
there are now some spray-on silicon compounds that can
help. Remember to also check that the mainsail foot
outhaul is slackened off.
BEARING AWAY
Don't forget this is a very effective and safe way of
absorbing gusts while reaching in strong wind conditions,
particularly under spinnaker. Rounding up tends to throw
the mast to leeward (the wrong way), and can increase
speed dramatically - all very exciting. However, bearing
away throws mast to windward, speed falls off, and the
motion feels much safer. This may sound odd, but try it
sometime in lighter conditions to get confidence - it really
works.
HEAVY HELM
The tiller should always be light and easy to handle,
with just one hand. If not, then there is
something
wrong
. Usual cause is the rudder blade has kicked back
slightly. If this is not the problem then rudder may not be
raked far enough forward. This can be changed by filling
the pivot hole in the rudder blade and re-drilling slightly
further forward (say 1/4").
RUDDER VENTILATION
This can be a problem at very high speeds, and
symptoms include a 'whoop' sound out the back, a huge
rooster tail, and no steering. This normally only happens
with speeds over 15 knots and fortunately the boat
usually just keeps tracking straight.
The cause is air being sucked down the side of the
rudder at high speeds, particularly if oversteering. Imme-
diate cure is to waggle the rudder a little, or bring it back
onto the centerline until the water flow reattaches, or slow
down.
To avoid, always keep the leading edge of your rudder
smooth and fair, and if it becomes a consistent problem
then the best cure is to fix a horizontal 'fence' to the
leading edge of the rudder about 12 to 15" up from the
bottom.
Fence
This will prevent the air from travelling down the blade
and retains steering control, even if the top part of the
rudder has ventilated.
RUDDER/DAGGERBOARD HUM
This is not an uncommon occurrence due to the
difficulty in getting perfectly fair foils in a production
environment. Even carefully hand made foils can de-
velop a hum, the technical cause or reason being called
'shedding' which creates the sound as water leaves the
rudder trailing edge.
A small fence fitted to an F-22R rudder blade
Summary of Contents for F-22
Page 42: ......
