10
ATTACHING THE LEVELING FEET
If you prefer, an optional stand (item EX-21BS) is avail-
able from your local General International dealer. The
stand is equipped with mounting holes allowing the
saw, after removing the leveling feet, to be bolted
directly to the stand.
INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL STAND
B
A
Install the leveling feet as shown. Loosen the upper
A
and lower
B
nuts as needed to adjust the height of the
foot.
FOR YOUR SAFETY IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE MACHINE DOES NOT ROCK OR TIP DURING OPERATION. UPON START-
UP OR DURING OPERATION, IF YOU NOTICE ANY ROCKING, TIPPING OR CHATTERING OF THE BASE TURN THE
MACHINE OFF IMMEDIATELY AND READJUST THE LEVELING FEET AS NEEDED TO STABILIZE THE SCROLL SAW ON THE
BENCH OR WORK SURFACE
MOUNTING TO A WORK SURFACE
If a permanent shop placement is practical, consider
removing the leveling feet on the base and drilling
matching through holes in the mounting surface of your
workbench or stand to bolt the saw in place (hardware
not included) on your workbench.
If a permanent installation is not practical, clamps can
also be used to secure the saw to a bench or work
table.
ORDER OF ASSEMBLY
A- Saw
B- Hex head bolt
C- Flat washer
D- Workbench or stand
E- Flat washer
F- Lock washer
G- Hex nut
D
A
C
E
F
G
Blade selection is dependent on the type and thickness of the material being cut, but is also a matter of experi-
ence and personal preference. There are numerous types of blades available on the market specifically suited
for various cutting applications such as metal-cutting and spiral blades which cut in all directions. Try test-cutting
with a sample of each to determine which blade works best for you with different materials. Replacement and
specialty blades can be purchased from a variety of sources. Ask your local tool or scroll saw dealer for sugges-
tions for
unpinned 5” scroll saw blades
based on what is available in your area.
BLADE SELECTION
CHOOSING & INSTALLING A SAW BLADE
Some general guidelines to consider when choosing blades:
•
Wide, thick blades with coarse teeth are suited to cutting straight lines and sweeping curves, but will not turn
tight corners. They will cut aggressively and leave a fairly smooth finish, but may leave burn marks if the work
piece is turned too tightly.
•
Narrower, thinner blades with finer teeth will cut more slowly, but will turn much tighter corners for cutting very
intricate work. They will impart a very smooth, burnished finish that requires no sanding.
•
Consider material thickness when selecting blades. Ensure that a minimum of two or three teeth are in con-
tact with the workpiece at all times. For example, when cutting 1/8” thick material, use a blade with a mini-
mum of of 16 20 teeth per inch.
B
