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CRL/SOMACA BELT SANDER
MODEL 2200RP and AU22
Page 2
NOTE: After a year or two of continued machine use, the pulleys will wear and need to be replaced or have a new crown
machined in them. This is usually evident when you cannot get the belt to track and pulley adjustment will not correct the
tracking. To check this, lay a straight edge across the pulley. A new pulley will have a noticeable hump or crown in the middle
of it. A worn-out pulley will be flat or even have a valley in its center. If the pulley is worn, a one degree crown should be
remachined into the surface or the pulley should be replaced with a new one.
Precautions:
1. Do not allow hands to come in contact with the belt while it is moving.
2. Be sure safety shield is properly positioned.
3. Do not overload your shop electrical circuits. Be sure wiring is adequate.
4. Be sure your service plug has grounding provisions to be sure the belt sander is grounded at all times.
GENERAL GUIDELINES
USING THE BELT SANDER
The application of the glass and the choice of belt grits are largely a matter of the individual operator’s preference, but the following procedures are
submitted as a guide for general work.
To obtain a round or pencil edge, use a coarse grit belt and lightly bevel the sharp edges left from cutting by running or swiping glass quickly across the
belt. This helps to reduce chipping the glass during succeeding grinding. Draw the glass slowly across the unsupported area of the belt above the platen,
and at the same time tilt the glass up and down until the desired contour is obtained. Finish the edge on a smoothing belt and then polish if desired.
For a flat, seamed edge, use a belt of medium grit and lightly bevel the edges as above. Next, grind the entire edge flat by applying the glass squarely
to the platen. Change to a finishing or smoothing grit and go over the flat edge again, then seam both sides of the glass by tilting it about 45° and running
it across the belt on the platen.
Rough grinding can be done by using abrasive belts in grit sizes 40, 60, 80, and 120. Belts of 150, 180, 220 and 280 grits are for smoothing; grits 320
and 400 for satin finishing; 600 grit and cork belts are for extra high polishing.
LUBRICATION
The only bearings on the sander that require lubrication are the motor bearings. On each end of the motor is a grease fitting for applying lubrication.
Time interval:
Every six months.
NOTE: Apply grease sparingly as overly greased bearings
can create seal failure and eventually cause bearing failure.
Type of grease:
CRL Cat.No.WL14
No.2 lithium base grease.
Use
CRL Cat.No.1200
Metal Lube weekly on the front rest roller axles.
HOW TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE ELECTRIC WATER VALVE
1.
Unplug the machine power supply.
2.
Turn off city water supply to the machine and disconnect the water supply line from the valve (see Photo 1 on Page 4).
3.
Disconnect the water line from the valve to the nozzle by pushing up on the quick-connect collar and pulling down on the plastic water line.
4.
Open the switchbox and disconnect the two gray wires; one from the switch and one from the taped wire (yellow) connection in the box.
5.
On the back of the switch box, rotate the lock ring clockwise (as viewed from the back) with a screwdriver. This will allow the valve to be removed.
6.
Unscrew the complete valve assembly from the switchbox. Remove the shut-off valve and quick-connect fitting from the old valve and, using thread
sealer, install it into the “OUT” side of the new valve (the “OUT” side is indicated by the small arrow on the side of the valve, see Photo 2 on Page 4).
7.
Feed the two gray wires from the new valve into the switchbox and screw the valve onto the fitting. Tighten the lock ring by turning it counterclock-
wise against the valve. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the valve is situated as shown in Photo 1 on Page 4, with the arrow on the brass fitting pointing down. The quick-connect
fitting should be pointing down. The brass fitting on the valve will rotate 360˚ to allow it to be set in this position.
8.
Connect the nozzle water tube by pushing it into the quick-connect fitting.
9.
Inside the switchbox, connect the gray wires; one to the switch and the other to the wired connection with the yellow wire.
Be sure to wrap the wire
connection with electrical tape.
10. Connect the city water supply and replace the cover to the switch box. Plug in the machine power supply.
11. Turn on city water supply. Turn on the machine and check for leaks. Check that there is water spraying from the nozzle.
12. Make sure the nozzle is NOT spraying when the power is shut off, and make a final check for leaks on all connections.
