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CRL/SOMACA BELT SANDER
MODEL 2200RP and AU22
Page 1
INTRODUCTION
Your new CRL/SOMACA Belt Sander was developed and improved through the years until it can now be called the finest piece of equipment available
in its price range. The machine incorporates many fine features such as a direct drive, 1 H.P. motor, a gas cylinder-tensioned upper pulley, safety shield,
totally sealed ball bearings eliminating weekly lubrication, and a unique, rust-proof, thick-walled HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) water tank.
Like any good machine, it will give best results if it is properly cared for. It is not necessary to pamper this equipment, but reasonable maintenance will
increase the machine’s life.
We put sealed bearings in our machines because we found that most shops do not take the time to grease the bearings on a routine basis. However,
even sealed bearings do sometimes go bad, and should be inspected on a weekly basis for noise or rough spots. Scrubbing the machine occasionally
will prevent glass and sludge build-up, and any areas where rust is starting to show should be scraped, primed, and repainted to get the maximum life out
of the machine.
The instructions on the following pages will guide you through the initial setup, maintenance, and replacement of parts on your machine. Should you
run into any problem or procedure you do not understand, please feel free to call our toll free number (800) 421-6144, and we will be glad to help you.
Parts and expert advice can also be obtained directly from the Sommer & Maca Machinery Division at (866) 583-1377. International: (773) 242-2871.
BELT SANDER SET UP
UNCRATING THE MACHINE
Remove the shipping cover and inspect for any damage. If you find any part of your machine has freight damage, save all shipping material and
call the delivering carrier immediately. Tell them you want to file a damage claim and have them send out an inspector. If everything is okay, completely
remove the shipping crate, including the wooden base.
SETTING UP THE BELT SANDER
1. Position the sander in your desired location. For best results, the sander should be level and secured to the floor with anchors, fastened through the
holes provided in the sander base.
2. With the belt sander switch in the OFF position, plug the sander into a 110 volt, single phase, 60 cycle grounded outlet.
NOTE: A ground plug is
provided for your safety. PLEASE DO NOT ALTER IT IN ANY WAY.
Now turn the switch on to see if the motor will run. If it does, go to the next step.
If it does not run, check all electrical connections and try again.
If you still have a problem, please call us before going any further.
3.
Unplug the sander before going any further.
Now you can connect the sander to your city water supply, using copper tubing and a 1/4" NPT
(National Pipe Thread) male connection to the 1/4" NPT female connection in the electric water valve (Photo 1 on Page 4). Note the “flow direction”
marked on the valve with an arrow. Turn the water on and check for leaks. Position a bucket or pan under the drain pipe on the machine, or connect
a hose for discharging into a flume or other device to allow sediment to settle and water to drain off.
NOTE: If drained into a sewer, abrasive sand
grindings may accumulate and plug the drain.
4. Plug the machine in again. Be sure the manual water flow control valve (after the electric water valve) has the handle turned in the direction the water
is flowing; this is the OPEN position. Turn the switch ON and the water will begin to spray. The spray pattern on the sander is not adjustable. If the
spray pattern decreases or changes, remove and clean the spray nozzle. The manual water flow control valve (Photo 1 on Page 4) can be adjusted to
reduce the water flow. Do not use any more water than needed to keep the belt wet. Turn the machine OFF. Unplug the sander and go to the next step.
5. Pull the handle to open the side door. Now install a belt over the top and bottom pulley by pulling down on the black handle on the tensioner
mechanism. Be sure the belt is not wrapped over the water nozzle.
NOTE: When grinding glass, only “wet or dry” belts with silicon carbide grain should be used. They come with two types of splices:
overlapping or butt splices. Butt splices can be run in either direction (such as CRL’s finger splice). Overlapping splices can be run only in
the direction indicated by arrows on the inside of the belt. The most common way to put lapped spliced belts on a belt sander is to put the
belt over the pulleys so you can see the arrow pointing up on the back side of the belt. This will give you the proper rotation.
6. With the sander still unplugged, pull the belt by hand through several cycles to adjust the tracking mechanism. Do this as follows: On the left side of
the tensioner assembly (as viewed from the side of the sander) is a black metal, star shaped knob. By turning this knob clockwise you will move the
belt to the right. By turning this knob counterclockwise you will move the belt to the left. Turn this knob until you have adjusted the belt so it will stay in
the middle of both pulleys when pulling the belt by hand.
7. Now plug the machine back in, turn the switch ON, and perform the fine tracking adjustments. The goal is to have the belt track in the middle of both
the upper and lower pulleys. If the contact roller does not match up with the belt at this time, loosen the Square Head Screws in the Platen Bracket
and tap the Roller Platen shaft until it aligns even with the belt, then tighten the screws.
8. The belt tension on the 2200RP is not adjustable, and is controlled by the gas cylinder on the tensioner. No adjustment is needed, and the cylinder is
available as a replacement part should the tension ever become too weak.
