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ENGLISH
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Fig. 19b
Fig. 20
Push sticks
Push stick can be purchased or made to securely hold down
the workpiece against the table when making non-through
cuts or ripping narrow stock. The stick must be narrower
than the workpiece, with a 90° notch in one end and shaped
for a grip on the other end.
How to make an additional push stick
(Fig. 21a-21b)
•
In order to operate your table saw safely, you must use a
push stick whenever the size or shape of the workpiece
would otherwise cause your hands to be within 6 in.
(152 mm) of the saw blade or other cutter. A push stick
is included with this saw (Fig. 21a).
•
No special wood is needed to make additional push
sticks as long as it’s sturdy and long enough. Make sure
that a push stick is long enough and has a notch that fits
against the edge of the workpiece to prevent slipping.
It’s a good idea to have several push sticks of the same
length with different size notches for different
workpiece thicknesses.
•
The shape can vary to suit your own needs as long as it
performs its intended function of keeping your hands
away from the blade.
WARNING:
Use only the push stick provided by the
manufacturer or constructed in accordance with the
instructions. This push stick provides sufficient
distance of the hand from the saw blade.
WARNING:
Never use a damaged or cut push stick. A
damaged push stick may break causing your hand to
slip into the saw blade.
Fig. 21a
Fig. 21b
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Miter gauge (Fig. 20)
Cutting aids such as push stick, push blocks, featherboards
and jigs should be used where appropriate to maximize
your ability to control your workpiece for a safe and precise
cut. When making non-through cuts or ripping narrow
stock, always use a push stick, push block, featherboard
and/or jig set-up so hands do not come within 6 inches of
blade.
A push stick is included with your saw. Additional push
sticks and other cutting aids can be purchased separately at
any authorized dealer. A push block has a handle fastened
by recessed screws from the underside. Use push blocks for
narrow cuts and all non-through cuts. Instructions for
making cutting aids can be found in later section.
Cutting aids
The miter gauge provides accuracy in angled cuts. For very
close tolerances, test cuts are recommended.
There are two miter gauge grooves, one on either side of
blade. When making a 90° cross cut, use either miter gauge
groove. When making a beveled cross cut (blade tilted in
relation to working table, miter gauge should be located in
groove on right so that blade is tilted away from miter
gauge and hands.
The miter gauge can be turned 60° to the left or right.
• Loosen lock knob
turning it counter-clockwise.
• With miter gauge in miter gauge groove, rotate miter
gauge body until desired angle is reached on scale .
• Retighten lock knob
turning it clockwise.
Additional Push Stick Construction
Included standard push stick
20°-30°
90°
Notch to
prevent hand
from slipping
Cut here to match wood
thickness when needed
Drill hole for
hanging
