Note : Before breaking into the gas supply a tightness test should be carried
out to establish that the existing pipework is sound.
i)
Uncoil the two fire fixing cables and thread one end of each of the
cables through one of the two holes on each side of the flue outlet
shroud.
j)
Position the fire carefully on the (protected) surface of the hearth and
reach into the fire opening. Thread each of the cables vertically
downwards through the pair of fixing eyes on the same side of the fire.
Thread the free end of the cables through the corresponding circular
hole on each side of the lower rear of the fire. Carefully slide the fire
box back into the fire opening and pull both cables tight.
k)
Thread a tensioning screw over each of the cables and ensure that the
tensioning nut is screwed fully up against the hexagon shoulder of the
tensioning screw (this provides maximum travel for the tensioning nut).
l)
Fit a screwed nipple on to each of the cables and pull hand tight up
against the tensioning screw, then secure each nipple with a flat
bladed screwdriver. See fig. 9 overpage.
m)
Evenly tighten the tensioning nuts to tension both cables and pull the
fire snugly against the casting. Do not overtighten, it is only necessary
to pull the seal up against the sealing face of the casting, it does not
need to be compressed. Check that there are no gaps behind the seal.
n)
With the fire securely in place, if a concealed gas connection has been
made through either of the access holes in the sides of the fire, the
holes should be closed around the pipe to prevent leakage of air
through the gap around the pipe.
o)
Refit the burner. Fit the two retaining screws and check that the burner
is correctly locked into position, see Fig. 5 on page 12 for diagram.
p)
Before making the final gas connection, thoroughly purge the gas
supply pipework to remove all foreign matter, otherwise serious
damage may be caused to the gas control valve on the fire
.
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