Brother NS-40 Operation Manual Download Page 82

Page: 82 / 106

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.

Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer

Basting stitching

4 mm (3/16 inch)

Turn on the machine.

Select stitch

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 42).

Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

Hemstitching

N 36 36 32

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium
weight and plain
weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc.

5.0

(3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

No No Reinforcement

Ladder stitch

J 28 28 24 24 Decorative stitching

4.0

(3/16)

0.0-7.0

(0-1/4)

3.0

(1/8)

2.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

No No Reinforcement

Rick-rack

stitch

J 29 29 25 25 Decorative stitching

4.0

(3/16)

0.0-7.0

(0-1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

Yes

(J)

No Reinforcement

Decorative

stitch

J 30 30 26

- Decorative stitching

5.5

(7/32)

0.0-7.0

(0-1/4)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

Yes

(J)

No Reinforcement

Serpentine

stitch

N 31 31 27 26

Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching

5.0

(3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

Yes

(J)

No Reinforcement

Stitch Name

ter

sse

r F

Pettern No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twi

edle

Walkin

g Fo

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

70 s

tche

odel

60 s

tche

odel

50 s

tche

odel

40 s

tche

odel

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Summary of Contents for NS-40

Page 1: ...EU_mid_coverEN PANTONE 285 Black English 885 V13 XE2417 001 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX 885 V13 Operation Manual ...

Page 2: ...ical outlet Do not pull on the cord Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet Do not use an extension cord Always unplug your machine if the power is cut 3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or water is spilled on the unit Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for exa...

Page 3: ...nd the machine needle Switch the sewing machine to the symbol O position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate as it could cause the needle to break Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break 6 This machine is not ...

Page 4: ...inspect and adjust the machine yourself If the problem persists please consult your local authorized Brother dealer Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual Save these instructions The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice For additiona...

Page 5: ...ace the fuse cover Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children and assistance may be required if used by a person with a disability ...

Page 6: ...5 ...

Page 7: ...ng the needle threader 26 Using the twin needle 26 Replacing the Needle 29 Needle precautions 29 Needle types and their uses 30 Checking the needle 31 Replacing the needle 31 Replacing the Presser Foot 33 Presser foot precautions 33 Replacing the presser foot 33 Removing the presser foot holder 34 Using the optional walking foot 35 Useful Functions 37 Changing the needle stop position 37 Changing ...

Page 8: ...pper 66 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 69 Stretch stitching 69 Elastic attaching 69 Appliqué Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 71 Appliqué stitching 72 Patchwork crazy quilt stitching 73 Piecing 73 Quilting 74 Free motion quilting 75 Reinforcement Stitching 77 Triple stretch stitching 77 Bar tack stitching 78 Decorative stitching 80 Fagoting 81 Scallop stitching 82 Smocking 82 Shell tuck stit...

Page 9: ...the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs h Operation buttons and sewing speed controller page 10 Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine i Operation panel page 10 Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings j Pattern selection dial page 42 Use to select the pattern to sew k Handwheel Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stit...

Page 10: ... appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch f Needle plate cover Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race g Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric h Quick set bobbin Begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread i Bobbin cover Remove the bobbin cover and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case j Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew s...

Page 11: ...lect a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn a LCD liquid crystal display The number of the selected stitch 1 the presser foot to be used 2 the stitch length mm 3 and the stitch width mm 4 are displayed here b Stitch length key page 42 Use to adjust the length of the stitch Press the side for a shorter stitch length or press the side for a longer stitch length c Stitch width key page 43 U...

Page 12: ... cap medium XE1372 001 4 Zipper foot I X59370 021 18 Spool cap small 130013 154 5 Zigzag foot J on machine XC3021 051 19 Extra spool pin XE2241 001 6 Blind stitch foot R X56409 051 20 Spool net XA5523 020 7 Button fitting foot M 130489 001 21 Foot controller XD0501 021 EU area 8 Seam ripper X54243 051 XC8816 021 other areas 9 Bobbin 4 SA156 SFB XA5539 151 22 Operation manual XE2417 001 10 Needle s...

Page 13: ... specifications are correct at the time of printing The part codes are subject to change without notice Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 No Part Name Part Code No Part Name Part Code U S A Canada Others U S A Canada Others 1 Side cutter SA177 F054 XC3879 002 7 Non stick foot SA114 F007N XC1949 002 2 Quilting...

Page 14: ... correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms WARNING Use only the power cord included with this machine Do not use extension cords or multi plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them Fire or electric shock may result Do not touch the plug with wet hands Electric shock may result When unplugging the machine always turn off the main power first Alwa...

Page 15: ... is not sewing b Press the left side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine set it to X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when the machine is turned off c Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord d Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack Note If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated turn o...

Page 16: ...l and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom Only use the bobbin part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 designed specifically for this sewing machine Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from other models are used the machine will not operate correctly Use only the included bobbin or ...

Page 17: ... When the spool net is used the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase Be sure to check the thread tension For details refer to Adjusting the thread tension page 49 a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin g While holding the spool with your right hand pull the thread with your left hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide a Thread guide h Pass the thread under the threa...

Page 18: ...the bobbin winding becomes slow press start stop button once to stop the machine o Cut the thread slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and then remove the bobbin from the shaft Memo When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin the machine will make a clicking sound this is not a malfunction The needle cannot move sewing is not possib...

Page 19: ...rwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from other models are used the machine will not operate correctly Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 a This model b Other model c 11 5 mm 7 16 inch actual size Before installing the bobbin or replacing the ne...

Page 20: ... spring Memo The direction for feeding the bobbin thread is indicated by marks around the needle plate cover Be sure to thread the machine as indicated f Reattach the bobbin cover Insert the tab in the lower left corner of the bobbin cover A and then press down on the right side B Memo You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before startin...

Page 21: ...hreader can be used with sewing machine needles 75 11 through 100 16 Use appropriate thread and needle combinations For details on appropriate needle and thread combinations refer to Needle types and their uses page 30 Thread with a thickness of 130 20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle If the needle threade...

Page 22: ...dure a Mark on handwheel d Swing up the spool pin and then remove the spool cap a Spool pin b Spool cap e Fully insert the spool for the upper thread onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom a a b If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly the thread may become tangled around the spool...

Page 23: ... tension of the upper thread will slightly increase Be sure to check the thread tension For details refer to Adjusting the thread tension page 49 a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin g While holding the spool with your right hand pull the thread with your left hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide a Thread guide h Pass the thread under the thread guide cover from the back to ...

Page 24: ... passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand and pulling the thread into the guide from right to left a Needle bar thread guide l Lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot lever Threading the needle This section describes how to thread the needle For models equipped with the thread guide disk a Pull the end of the thread which has been passed through the nee...

Page 25: ...he thread guide disks marked 7 a 80 mm 3 inches or more c Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the machine and then slowly return the lever to its original position a Needle threader lever X The thread is passed through the eye of the needle Note If the needle was not completely threaded but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle carefully pull the loop through the...

Page 26: ... using the needle threader For models without the thread guide disk a While lowering the needle threader lever hook the thread onto the guide a Needle threader b Thread c Guide b Catch the thread on the hook as shown below a Needle threader lever c Raise the needle threader lever and then pull the end of the thread which passed through the eye of the needle d Raise the presser foot lever pass the ...

Page 27: ...ferent threads Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra spool pin For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle refer to Stitch Settings page 89 a Twin needle b Extra spool pin a Install the twin needle For details on installing a needle refer to Replacing the needle page 31 b Thread the upper thread for the left...

Page 28: ...D comes on j Select a stitch For details on selecting a stitch refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle refer to Stitch Settings page 89 k Press Needle mode selection key X The twin needle can now be used To return to single needle sewing press Needle mode selection key Even after the sewing machine is turned off the twin needle setting ...

Page 29: ...occurs increase the stitch length For details on adjusting the stitch length refer to Adjusting the stitch length and width page 42 When changing the sewing direction press needle position button to raise the needle from the fabric and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged Do not try turning the fabric with the twin needl...

Page 30: ...needle Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous for example if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below Only use home sewing machine needles Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine Never use bent needles Bent needles can easily break possibly resulting in injuries CAUTION ...

Page 31: ...adcloth Cotton thread 60 80 75 11 90 14 Taffeta Synthetic thread Flannel Gabardine Silk thread 50 Thin fabrics Lawn Cotton thread 60 80 65 9 75 11 Georgette Synthetic thread Challis Satin Silk thread 50 Thick fabrics Denim Cotton thread 30 50 90 14 100 16 Corduroy Synthetic thread 50 60 Tweed Silk thread Stretch fabrics Jersey Thread for knits 50 60 Ball point needle golden colored 75 11 90 14 Tri...

Page 32: ...surface Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below Use the screwdriver and a correct needle as described in Checking the needle a Press needle position button once or twice to raise the needle a Needle position button b Turn off the sewing machine c Lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot lever a b a a Before replacing the needle be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise...

Page 33: ...to the machine may result e With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper a Needle stopper f While holding the needle with your left hand tighten the needle clamp screw Turn the screwdriver clockwise Install the twin needle in the same way b a a Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tigh...

Page 34: ...resser foot holder Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot causing the needle to bend or break Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine CAUTION Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing mac...

Page 35: ...r foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder X The presser foot is attached g Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing the optional walking foot a Remove the presser foot For details refer to Replaci...

Page 36: ... dogs and the teeth on the presser foot This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot Attaching the walking foot a Remove the presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 34 b Hook the connecting fork of the ...

Page 37: ... and then remove the walking foot a Presser foot holder screw e Attach the presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 34 Memo Only the straight stitch with reinforcement stitching and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot For details on the stitches refer to Stitch Settings page 89 The optional walking foot is available through your Brother dealer ...

Page 38: ...twice release the automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key a Automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key X The needle stop position changes to the raised position Memo Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position When the needle stops in the raised position The needle stops in the raised position when sewing ends Memo After sewing is finished the fabric ca...

Page 39: ...is turned on a Turn off the sewing machine b While pressing needle mode selection key turn on the sewing machine When the machine beeps twice release the needle mode selection key a Needle mode selection key single twin X The initial needle position is changed to the center needle position Memo The specified initial needle position is maintained even after the machine is turned off Perform the sam...

Page 40: ...ft X With the flat bed attachment removed free arm sewing is possible b Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm and then sew from the top c When you are finished with free arm sewing install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier a Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide tabl...

Page 41: ...able is available through your Brother dealer d Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to adjust their height so the wide table will be level with the sewing machine bed e When you are finished using the wide table remove it While slightly lifting up the wide table pull it off to the left f Install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Do not move the sewing machine while the wid...

Page 42: ...ot causing the needle to bend or break When sewing make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins otherwise the needle may break or bend Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise injuries may occur if the start stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing CAUTION 1 Turn on the machine Turn on the sewing machine For details refer...

Page 43: ...e LCD a Presser foot type For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 Memo The presser foot to be used is indicated by the letter J A etc that appears above the stitch number d If necessary adjust the stitch width and stitch length For details on making adjustments refer to the next section Adjusting the stitch length and width Adjusting the stitch length and width Example To select st...

Page 44: ...he fabric are aligned correctly a Turn on the sewing machine The straight stitch left needle position is automatically selected b Press needle position button once or twice to raise the needle a Needle position button c Place the fabric under the presser foot If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way After...

Page 45: ... sewing machine The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller Note Important When the foot controller is plugged in start stop button cannot be used to start sewing Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button start stop button a Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desire...

Page 46: ...arted and stopped using the foot controller a Turn off the sewing machine When connecting the foot controller be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started b Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the side of the sewing machine a Foot controller jack c Turn on the sewing machine d Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or ri...

Page 47: ...ng is stopped For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped refer to Changing the needle stop position page 37 Securing the stitching When sewing with the straight stitch for example at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread a Lower the needle into the fabric at the...

Page 48: ...d down reverse stitches are sewn g After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn release reverse reinforcement stitch button X The machine stops sewing h Press start stop button or press down on the foot controller At this time if start stop button is held down the machine sews at a slow speed X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction i After sewing to the end of the stitching stop...

Page 49: ...t stitches and zigzag stitches reverse stitches not reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn a Select a stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 b Press automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key a Automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key X appears in the LCD This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforceme...

Page 50: ...esult or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric use the thread tension dial to increase or decrease the tension of the upper thread Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of t...

Page 51: ...r project Changing the sewing direction a When stitching reaches a corner stop the sewing machine Leave the needle lowered in the fabric If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing press needle position button b Raise the presser foot lever and then turn the fabric Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot c Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing a Presser foot lever Sewi...

Page 52: ...oot a Black button c The presser foot remains level enabling the fabric to be fed After the seam is sewn the presser foot will return to its normal operation Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly If this occurs place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric When you have fi...

Page 53: ...hread with your left hand with the needle in the up position press needle position button twice to lower and raise the needle a Needle position button X The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread and can be pulled up d Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread e Pull out about 10 15 cm 4 5 inches of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the ...

Page 54: ...5 1 8 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 4 1 16 0 0 4 0 0 3 16 Yes J Yes Reverse 3 point zigzag stitch J 06 06 06 06 Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics attaching elastic darning etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 1 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Overcasting stitch G 07 07 07 07 Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics 3 5 1 8 2 5 5 0 3 32 3 16 2 0 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforceme...

Page 55: ...lect or c Attach overcasting foot G For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 d Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot and then lower the presser foot lever a Presser foot guide e Slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot f Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide...

Page 56: ...be adjusted with the straight stitch left needle position and the triple stretch stitch by adjusting the stitch width Press the side of the stitch width key for a left needle position or press the side for a right needle position a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pettern No Application...

Page 57: ...e fabric After basting fold back the fabric along the basting and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm 3 16 inch e Edge of hem b Turn on the machine c With the pattern selection dial select or d Attach blind hem foot R For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pe...

Page 58: ... needle is positioned too far to the left Press the side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is positioned too far to the right Press the side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly ca...

Page 59: ...3 16 0 5 1 32 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 38 38 34 31 Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings 5 0 3 16 3 0 5 0 1 8 3 16 0 5 1 32 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 39 39 35 32 Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 0 1 16 0 5 2 0 1 32 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 40 40 36 33 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6 0 1...

Page 60: ...mes of parts of buttonhole foot A which is used for sewing buttonholes are indicated below Before replacing the presser foot be sure to turn off the sewing machine otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing a a a CAUTION A a b c e d a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm 3 16 inch ...

Page 61: ...m 9 16 inch and a thickness of 10 mm 3 8 inch the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm 1 inch on the scale a 10 mm 3 8 inch b 15 mm 9 16 inch X The size of the buttonhole is set c Turn on the machine d With the pattern selection dial select a stitch e Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 f Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser f...

Page 62: ...m ripper For keyhole buttonholes use the enclosed eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole a Eyelet punch When using the eyelet punch place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric Changing the stitch length Press the or side of the stitch length key to adjust t...

Page 63: ...hread onto the part of buttonhole foot A shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves and then loosely tie it b Turn on the sewing machine c Select stitch or d Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 e Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread f Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever and then start sewing g Whe...

Page 64: ...itch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button g Place the button into button fitting foot M a Button X The button is held in place When attaching four hole buttons first sew the two holes closest to you Then slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine and then sew them in the same way h Turn the handwheel tow...

Page 65: ...s a Drop feed lever as seen from the rear of the machine Memo The feed dog position switch is normally set to the right side as seen from the rear of machine The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank attach the button with space between it and the fabric and then wind the thread by hand This attaches the button securely a Place t...

Page 66: ...se stitches after reaching the zipper opening For details on basic stitching refer to Basic Stitching page 55 c Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the fabric a Basting stitching b Reverse stitching c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening d Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric a Wrong side of fabric Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pettern No Application Stitch...

Page 67: ...ting stitching Inserting a side zipper Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side as shown in the illustration When using zipper foot I be sure to use a center needle position and slowly turn the handwheel tow...

Page 68: ...8 inch f Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm 1 8 inch and then baste or pin the zipper in place a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching g With the pattern selection dial select stitch h Attach the presser foot holder to the right side of the pin of zipper foot I If the stitching will be sewn on the right side opposite side of this example attach the presser ...

Page 69: ...de of the pin in step h change it to the left side of the pin a Left side of the pin b Needle drop point For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 m Topstitch along the zipper Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitching d Beginning of stitching e B...

Page 70: ...uitable length of the elastic tape be used a Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric a Elastic tape b Pin b Turn on the machine Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pettern No Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse Reinforceme...

Page 71: ...lastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand When sewing make sure that the needle does not touch any pins otherwise the needle may bend or break CAUTION ...

Page 72: ... appliqués and binding 1 5 1 16 0 5 3 5 1 32 1 8 1 8 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement J 20 20 Attaching appliqués and binding 1 5 1 16 0 5 3 5 1 32 1 8 1 8 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement Piecing straight stitch J 15 15 15 15 Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the right edge of the presser foot 5 5 7 32 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1 64 ...

Page 73: ...or details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 Hand look quilting J 17 17 16 16 Straightstitchquilting that looks hand sewn 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement Quilting stitch for stippling J 21 21 17 17 Quilting background stitching stippling 7 0 1 4 1 0 7 0 1 16 1 4 1 6 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement Before replacing the presser foot be sure to ...

Page 74: ...ng Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called piecing The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6 5 mm 1 4 inch seam allowance Sew a piecing straight stitch 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the right side of the presser foot a Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together b Turn on the machine c Select stitch or is available only on models with 60 or 70 stitches For deta...

Page 75: ...ptional walking foot page 35 c Select a stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the walking foot refer to Stitch Settings page 89 d Place one hand on each side of the presser foot and hold fabric taut while sewing Note When sewing with the walking foot sew at a speed between slow and medium Using the optional quilting guide Use the q...

Page 76: ...le clamp screw a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw d Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the enclosed screwdriver in your left hand e Slide the feed dog position switch located at the rear of the machine on the base to the position shown below to lower the feed dogs a Feed dog position switch ...

Page 77: ...stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of stitching a Pattern Reverse stitches cannot be sewn when the feed dogs are lowered i After sewing is finished slide the feed dog position switch to its original position to raise the feed dogs The feed dogs are normally left raised Memo Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs a ...

Page 78: ...he side of the stitch width key for a left needle position or press the side for a right needle position a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pettern No Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse Reinforcement Stitching 70 stitches model 60 sti...

Page 79: ...r foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm 3 16 inch b Turn on the machine c With the pattern selection dial select stitch d Attach buttonhole foot A For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 e Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot and then pull it under the presser foot as shown f With the opening of the pocket toward you position the fabric so that the needl...

Page 80: ...read in your left hand and then start sewing X Once sewing is completed the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches then stops i Raise the presser foot lever cut the threads and then remove the fabric j Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position Memo If the fabric does not feed for example because it is too thick increase the stitch length For details refer to Adjusting the stit...

Page 81: ...ching and sewing overcast ing on both pieces of fabrics such as with tricot 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement J 25 25 21 21 Patchwork stitching and decorative stitch ing 5 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 2 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Shell tuck stitch J 14 14 14 14 Shell tuck stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J No Rei...

Page 82: ...wing is finished remove the paper Hemstitching N 36 36 32 Decorative hemming on thin medium weight and plain weave fabrics heir loom stitching etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 2 0 1 16 1 5 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement Ladder stitch J 28 28 24 24 Decorative stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 3 0 1 8 2 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement Rick rack stitch J 29 29 25 25 Decorative stitching 4 0 3 16 0...

Page 83: ...king The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called smocking It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric a Turn on the machine b Select the straight stitch and then adjust the stitch length to 4 0 mm 3 16 inch and loosen the thread tension For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 and Adjust...

Page 84: ...ly off the edge of the fabric a Needle drop point f Unfold the fabric and then iron the tucks down to one side Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics This is used when making a crazy quilt a Turn on the machine b Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric and then open up the seam allowances a Wrong side of fabric b 6 5 mm 1 4 inch ...

Page 85: ...ing the presser foot page 33 c Select stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 d With the right side of the fabric facing up sew along the right edge of the frayed section e Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite side The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the ...

Page 86: ...out several threads from two sections of the fabric separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm 3 16 inch a 4 mm 3 16 inch b Attach monogramming foot N For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 c Select stitch For details refer to Selecting a stitch page 42 d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section N 1 N ...

Page 87: ...ise the presser foot lever e Raise the presser foot lever even higher and then hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pettern No Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Reverse Reinforcement Stitching 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Auto Ma...

Page 88: ... guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot a Guide plate Note If the fabric is not positioned correctly the fabric will not be cut k Lower the presser foot lever and then start sewing X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn If stitch is sewn the seam allowance will be about 5 mm 3 16 inch a 5 mm 3 16 inch Note The side cutter can cut as much as one layer...

Page 89: ...UTILITY STITCHES 88 ...

Page 90: ... sew ing gathers or pin tucks etc 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J Yes Reverse Cen ter J 02 02 02 02 Attaching zippers basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks etc 3 5 1 8 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J Yes Reverse Triple stretch stitch J 03 03 03 03 Attaching sleeves sewing inseams sew ing stretch fabrics and decorative stitch ing 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 ...

Page 91: ...3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Piecing straight stitch J 15 15 15 15 Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the right edge of the presser foot 5 5 7 32 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement J 16 16 Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the left edge of the presser foot 1 5 1 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1...

Page 92: ... smocking and decorative stitch ing 5 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement J 27 27 23 23 Fagoting smocking and decorative stitch ing 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Ladder stitch J 28 28 24 24 Decorative stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 3 0 1 8 2 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No No Reinforcement Rick rack stitch J 29 29 25 25 Decorati...

Page 93: ...brics that have backings 5 0 3 16 3 0 5 0 1 8 3 16 0 5 1 32 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 39 39 35 32 Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 0 1 16 0 5 2 0 1 32 1 16 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 40 40 36 33 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 5 1 16 1 0 3 0 1 16 1 8 No No Automatic Reinforcement A 41 41 37 34 Keyhole b...

Page 94: ... 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 52 50 43 36 For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 53 For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 54 For decoration etc 5 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 55 For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16...

Page 95: ...4 0 4 1 64 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J No Reinforcement N 65 For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 4 1 64 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J No Reinforcement Cross stitches N 66 For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 6 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 67 For decoration etc 6 0 15 64 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 4 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No No Reinforcement N 68 58 For decoration etc 6 0 15 64 0 0 7 0 0...

Page 96: ...ve the presser foot holder and then loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle e Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover and then slide it toward you a Needle plate cover X The needle plate cover is removed f Remove the bobbin case Grasp the bobbin case and then pull it out a Bobbin case g Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove any lint and dust from the race and its surr...

Page 97: ... the screws with the disc shaped screwdriver c Remove the tangled thread from the needle plate d Return the needle plate to its original position and then tighten the screws with the disc shaped screwdriver Note Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine e Follow steps g through i beginning on page 95 Never use a bobbin case that is scratched otherwise the uppe...

Page 98: ...utton disconnect the foot controller page 44 The needle breaks The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle page 31 The needle clamp screw is loose Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw page 32 The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle with a new one page 31 The combination of fabric thread and needle is incorrect Select a thread and needle that are appropriate f...

Page 99: ... or the nearest authorized service center The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched Replace the presser foot Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center The bobbin case is scratched Replace the bobbin case Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used Bobbins from older models which have a d...

Page 100: ...t or blunt Replace the needle with a new one page 31 If thin fabrics are being sewn the stitch is too long or the fabric is not being fed correctly Sew with stabilizer material under the fabric page 51 The thread tension is incorrectly set Adjust the thread tension page 49 Stitches are skipped The upper thread is incorrectly installed Correct the upper threading page 20 The combination of fabric t...

Page 101: ...angled for example in the bobbin case Remove the tangled thread If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case clean the race page 95 The fabric does not feed The feed dogs are lowered Slide the feed dog position switch to page 75 The stitch is too short Lengthen the stitch length page 42 The combination of fabric thread and needle is incorrect Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the ...

Page 102: ...inuing the opera tion The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the start stop button was pressed The foot controller was depressed if it is connected while the button hole lever is raised Lower the buttonhole lever before continuing the opera tion The reverse reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right Move the bob...

Page 103: ...eck for the cause of the error and correct it before continuing to sew Canceling the operation beep When the sewing machine is purchased it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep a Turn off the sewing machine b While holding the side of stitch width key pressed turn on the sewing machine When a beep is heard release ...

Page 104: ...stitching 84 I included accessories 11 J joining 83 M main power switch 14 maintenance 95 monogramming foot 11 N needle 29 needle position 55 needle position button 18 needle set 11 needle stop position 37 non stick foot 12 O open toe foot 12 operation beep 102 operation buttons 10 operation manual 11 operation panel 10 42 101 optional accessories 12 overcasting foot 11 54 P patchwork 73 pattern s...

Page 105: ...settings 89 stitch width 42 straight stitch 55 stretch stitching 69 T thread guide 20 thread tension 49 thread tension dial 49 triple stretch stitching 77 twin needle 11 26 U upper thread 20 W walking foot 12 35 74 wide table 12 39 Z zigzag foot 11 51 zipper foot 11 66 zipper insertion 65 ...

Page 106: ...EU_mid_coverEN PANTONE 285 Black English 885 V13 XE2417 0011 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX 885 V13 Operation Manual ...

Search results

Summary of Contents for NS-40

Reviews:

Related manuals for NS-40

Brands by name

Popular brands

Brother NS-40, Operation Manual

Search results

Summary of Contents for NS-40

Reviews:

Related manuals for NS-40

Brands by name

Popular brands