3.4
HYDRAULIC SETTINGS
The KIRK shock is a three-ways adjustable shock, which means there are three types of damping adjustment:
rebound, low-speed compression and high-speed compr a lock out lever that affects low speed compression
only. Your shock’s base setting (internal) is set up for your bike’s geometry when you purchase the shock. We use
five basic settings which cover the majority of bikes on the market. If a different setting is necessary for a given bike,
we will develop it.
The purpose of damping adjustments is to use all the shock’s travel without bottoming-out (or only very
occasionally), to give grip to the rear wheel, to stop the bike stalling out in holes, and finally to maintain a good
chassis position. Below you will find the base settings for all shocks. Then it’s up to you to analyze its performance on
the trail and adjust the settings to suit your riding style. Do this carefully and methodically, step by step. Only change
one setting at a time and only by a few clicks. If it’s OK, note the setting and type of terrain. If you get confused with
the settings, return to the base settings and start again.
Low-speed compression (A) and low-speed compression lock out lever (B)
The low-speed compression (A) affects the shock’s performance in compression over small bumps or through the
beginning of the travel and low-speed shocks (like whoops).
Harden the low-speed compression (by turning the knob clockwise) on rolling terrain with big compressions and
kickers.
Soften the low-speed compression (by turning the knob anti-clockwise) on steep gradients.
The lock out lever (B) acts on the low-speed compression and affects the shock’s threshold. It is useful to lock it out
on pedaling sections and uphills to maintain the bike’s balance.
High-speed compression (C)
The high-speed compression acts mainly on harsh hits (jump landings, rough rutted sections). It should be soft
enough to get all the travel without bottoming-out. If, on a given track, you bottom-out frequently, harden the high-
speed compression by turning the knob clockwise. However, don’t get hung up on bottoming-out if it only happens
once or twice during your run. You risk setting your shock for 3% of the course and losing effeciency on the other
97%.
If your shock doesn’t get full travel, soften the high-speed compression by turning the knob to anti-clockwise.
Rebound (D)
The main factor in adjusting the rebound is the position of the bike. A bike shouldn’t be “sunken down” all the time,
although the back does need to be fairly low. Adjusting the rebound will allow you to maintain this balance.
If you feel like the back of the bike is pushing you forward on a slope or when braking, slow down the rebound (turn
the knob clockwise). It can be useful to accompany this adjustment (especially if the problem persists) by softening
the low-speed compression slightly (by turning knob A counter-clockwise).
However, if the bike seems too low at the back and/or the front end has a tendency to drift offline, speed up the
rebound (turn the knob anti-clockwise).
C
D
A
B
