5 BBL Single Wall Hybrid Brewhouse V6
© Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2022
For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts
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A4:
The Red Lion controller has no way to know how much volume is contained within your vessel, if your vessel is only half full it’s likely
going to overshoot your target setpoint by several degrees. Try keeping your Hot Liquor Tank topped off prior to your Strike or Sparging
processes. If your vessels are at full volume and the controller continues to overshoot your target setpoints, some PID tuning may need to be
performed. Please contact Craft Automation support.
Q4: Why is my 2BBL system drastically overshooting my target setpoints even though I made sure PID mode
is enabled on my controller, and my heaters pulse on and off?
A7:
Yes, please refer to the “Red Lion General Programming Instructions”, Section 7.
Q7: I prefer Metric units rather than English (*C instead of *F), can the Red Lion controllers be changed in this
regard?
A8:
There are a few things that can be checked to resolve this:
1:
Verify that the Mini-Circuit breakers inside the control panel are all turned on, each heating element circuit is protected by its own branch
breaker, which are located immediately above the heater contactors within the control panel. Red indicators mean they are on.
2:
Check float switch wiring/configuration. The float switch/es will prevent the heating elements from coming on if their floats are either
above the water line, not wired correctly, or operating opposite of what they should (heating elements can come on if water is below float
but shut off if water is above float).
3:
If the float has failed, you can bypass their operation by reinstalling the jumper that was in the float switch terminals when the panel
was shipped to you. This situation can leave you open to dry firing the elements and should only be used until the float can be replaced.
Importantly, Dry firing isn’t covered under the warranty!
Q8: Why aren’t my heating elements turning on? I’ve already checked my E-Stop, my Temp setpoint, and my
control switch positions.
A9:
We can answer some frequent questions and, in some instances give advice. However, these control panels and the wiring are not DIY
type projects. These systems draw a lot of energy, at medium to high voltages. They can be extremely dangerous if not handled appropriately
and wired adequately.
If you are not a qualified and licensed electrician, please seek the assistance of someone who is qualified
and licensed. These installations need to be safe and to up to code, otherwise severe injury or death can occur! Damage to the
equipment and/or control panel is possible if not installed correctly.
Q9: I have a few wiring and installation related questions. I’m very handy and intend on doing the
installation myself. Can you guide me with the schematics, and suggest the type of wire/cables & connectors
we need to purchase?
A5:
ALM1 and ALM2 is just a customizable upper/lower limit fault alert. This can be handy for your Strike/Sparge & Mash Tun temperature
displays, alerting the user if/when the vessel temperature is outside of the limits for each respective stage/process. You may refer to the “Red
Lion General Programming Instructions”, Section 2, which details the alarm actions and how to change those values.
Q5: Why does the Red Lion Controller show ALM1 and/or ALM2?
A6:
The probes need to be wired to the control panel in a specific way in order to function correctly. As of the writing of this document
(10/14/2022), the
Blue
lead from the 3-Wire temperature probe needs to be on the ‘A’ terminal for each respective vessel as shown on the
wiring schematics (probes with wire colors Blue, Red, and White), the two ‘B’ terminal leads can be interchanged with one another but neither
‘B’ lead from the probe can be landed on the ‘A’ terminal. If you suspect your probe is different, or the color coding is different, you may use
a multimeter/voltmeter to measure the resistance between all three pairs, one pair at a time. Two of the leads will have 0.0 Ohms resistance
(or very close to), these two wires are the ‘B’ terminals which leaves the third wire to be the ‘A’ terminal, you should be able to measure a
resistance of approximately 100-110 Ohms at room temperature between the ‘A’ lead and either one of the two ‘B’ leads.
If wiring has been
confirmed and is verified correct, please contact customer support.
Q6: Why is my Red Lion controller showing [OPEN], [OLOL], [SHrt] or [ULUL] instead of a temperature?
A10:
Power down the control panel. Do not keep resetting the breaker, as it’ll shorten the lifespan of the circuit breaker considerably. With
the panel powered down, have a qualified and licensed electrician check the circuit using a multi-meter, looking for short circuits from one
phase to another on the load side of the control panel. Also check for shorts to Ground. Have the electrician inspect the heating element
housing for loose wire strands and cable plugs/receptacles, if applicable.
Q10: One or more of my mini-circuit breakers (branch breakers) which feeds my heating element circuits is
continually tripping, I keep resetting it, but it keeps tripping every time I turn the heating element back on.
What can I do?
