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Set the boom length.
• Sit on the trike, wearing shoes like those you’ll have on
when riding, and adjust the boom length. This is done by
loosening the boom release enough to allow the boom to
move, then putting your instep on one pedal and extending
your leg fully (the boom will rotate…just move it back to
vertical with your hand). You should be able to lock your
knee, but not
have
to lock your knee. You can fine-tune
the position later. Re-tighten the boom release (or pinch
bolts) enough to keep the boom from slipping.
Humans are capable of producing some incredible power for
very short periods of time when accelerating from a dead stop.
If your boom is not clamped tightly enough, it will rotate and
slip forward.
• Using the PowerLinks, assemble the three separate lengths
of chain and install it. The power side (upper run) goes
under the idler, between the main cross member and the
tie rod, and over the top of the chainrings. The return side
(lower run) goes through the chain tube.
Note the chain routing above there are two chain guide tubes
with the top tube running above the cross member (drive ) and
bottom guide tube (return) running beneath the cross member.
The drive part of chain runs underneath the black guide pulley
and over the top of the chain ring.
TIPS:
It’s easier to thread the chain if you immobilize the crank.
This can get messy! Protect your work surface and keep paper
towels handy. It’s easy to thread the chain through the rear
derailleur cage incorrectly. Make sure the chain runs cleanly
through it, and not over the retaining tabs.
Adjust the chain length. To do this, shift onto the largest cog
on the rear and the largest chain ring in the front. Pull the
chain taut, so that the rear derailleur cage is fully extended.
Then add two links. That will be close to the ideal length for
the chain. Use the included PowerLink to hold the chain
together.
If your Catrike will be used by more than one person, feel free
to use two PowerLinks so that the chain can be easily adjusted
for other riders: simply set the trike up for the shorter rider,
then insert a piece of chain long enough to accommodate the
taller rider. If this short piece of chain is between two
PowerLinks, adjusting the trike should take only a couple of
minutes. It’s a good idea to mark the boom for both length and
orientation for each rider using a Sharpie marker, so that the
setting can be repeated easily.
Just to be clear on what we mean by “two links,” check the
photo. Don’t forget that the PowerLink counts as one link.
There’s a trick to opening a
PowerLink that seems to
elude many people. First
hold the link between your
thumb and forefinger, and
push the plates together
(towards one another). Then slide them in opposite directions,
as if you were snapping your fingers. Opening a PowerLink
should be easy…if you find yourself reaching for a pair of
pliers; you’re not doing it correctly.
TIP:
It’s easier to work
on a chain under tension
if you create a loop of
slack and hold it in place
with a stiff, bent wire,
made from an old spoke
or wire coat hanger.
Adjust the derailleurs.
• Your Catrike should have shipped with information sheets
for both the front and rear derailleurs that describe this
process. It will also be described in any bicycle maintenance
book.
Air the tires.
• Fill the tires to the recommended pressure (you can find
this on the sidewall of the tire).
Adjust the toe.
• Any vehicle with left and right wheels has a setting called
“toe.” This refers to the extent to which the front wheels
point towards one another. Toe in means that the front
edges of the wheels point inward slightly. Toe out means
they point outward slightly.
The purpose of toe is to keep the steering nice and tight. All
bearings and linkages inevitably have a little slop in them. By
applying a bit of force to the entire system, it’s possible to
remove that slop. But too much toe and you cause the tires
to scrub because they’re pointing far off the line of travel. This
causes premature tire wear and increased rolling resistance.
What you’re looking for is just a little bit of toe.
Toe is checked by measuring the distance between the front
wheels at axle height ahead of the axles, then comparing it to
the distance between the wheels at axle height behind the
axles. The difference should be only 1/16”. It can be measured
with a tape measure. Be sure to measure between the same
points (e.g. inner surfaces of the front tires, centerline of tires,
etc.) on both front and back.
