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TM
Take the tie rod and turn the jam nuts all the way out towards
the rod-end bearings (if they aren’t already) then screw the
rod-end bearings in as far as they’ll go.
Bolt each rod end bearing to its spindle assembly, placing the
ball of the rod-end bearing on top of the spindle plate. The
bolt goes in from the top, and the nut goes on underneath the
plate. Tighten everything snugly.
•For the Road:
The Road tie rods have right
and left rod end bearings, so
that you can micro-adjust them
for proper toe in. You can adjust
them by unlocking the jam nut
and spinning the tie rods by hand.
Thread each tie rod end in
half way before mounting it.
This will give you the most
“travel” when adjusting toe
later. Attach the rod end
bearings to the handle bars.
Next, attach the rod end
bearings to each spindle.
TIP
: This is one of the few places on the Catrike where a steel
bolt is threaded into a steel nut. The caution about the ease
of stripping threads does not apply here.
!
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE
!
The tie rod bolts should be kept tightened securely. If they get
loose, the steering will get sloppy and the wheels may shimmy
under certain circumstances. If the bolts fall out, loss of control
could result. Check them from time to time!
Install the brake cables.
• This is done by threading the cable through the brake lever
and fitting the small metal cylinder on the end into the
recess in the lever. Screw the barrel adjusters on the
bottom of the levers almost all of the way in (they’ll be
used later to take up slack during brake adjustment).
The procedure for the left
and right brake is the same.
Slide the brake cable
housing on. You should have
eight cable ferrules. Four
are for the brake cable
housings. Thread the cable
through a ferrule, then
through the housing, then
through another ferrule.
Thread the end of the cable through the fittings in the brake
actuating arm. The ferrule fits under the rubber boot. Loosen
the cable clamp bolt, put the cable under the clamp plate, pull
it taut and retighten the bolt. Using a bicycle cable cutter
(preferred) or a SHARP pair of wire cutters cut the brake cable
so that a few inches extend beyond the clamp bolt.
!
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE
!
The end of the cut cable MUST be sealed, or it will fray and
cause a serious safety hazard. Those wires are sharp! Crimp
on one of the included cable ends.
TIP:
If you run out of cable ends, and can’t get to a bike shop
for more, you can use a drop of cyanoacrylate glue (Krazy
Glue), some epoxy or a blob of solder to seal the cable ends.
Adjust the brakes
• First pull hard on both brake levers to seat the cables. Turn
the barrel adjusters out until the levers do not bottom out
when the brakes are applied fully. If you cannot set the
brakes using the barrel adjusters, you’ll have to take up
more slack in the cable by loosening the clamp bolt and
pulling the cable tighter.
Screw in the lock nuts on the adjusters.
If the brake makes noise or drags, adjust the caliper position
and/or the brake pad relief using the caliper mounting bolts
and pad adjusting knobs.
Install the boom on the main frame tube.
• Be sure to place the plastic sleeve between the main frame
tube and the boom. The plastic sleeve referred to is 6” x
5-1/2” polymer sheet. It is installed with the 6” dimension
(the long side) running forward and backward along the
boom. If you install it with the long side around the boom
it will cause to boom to be much too tight assuming you
manage to force it into the frame.
When you install the boom,
make sure the plastic sleeve is
properly placed, flush with the
end of the frame under the
collar. Once the boom is in
place, tighten the quick release
only enough to keep it from
sliding: you’ll be adjusting it
later.
