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Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the felling
hinge. Use full throttle and bring the bar and chain slowly
into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in
the opposite direction of your intended felling direction.
Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as soon as it is
deep enough.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so
that the distance between them is at least 1/1O of the trunk
diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling
hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling hinge
is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional cuts and
felling cut are badly placed.
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete, the
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling
wedge or breaking bar.
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut and
directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See instructions
under Specifications to find out which lengths of bar are
recommended for your saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger
than the bar length. However, these methods involve a much
greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into
contact with the tree.
Freeing a tree that has fallen badly
Freeing a “trapped tree”
It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is a
high accident risk.
Never try to fell the tree that is trapped
Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree.
The safest method is to use a winch.
•
Tractor-mounted
•
Portable
Cutting trees and branches that are in
tension
Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where
the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break if
it was bent even more).
WORKING TECHNIQUES
BT-CS-40
