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Fault
Kit won’t turn on at all
Solution
Get a hold of a multimeter and test the voltage (DC) output from
the base of the battery. If this isn’t over 41V on a 36V kit, then the
battery may have to be returned to us for testing and potential
replacement. If this is not the issue, then please double check the
connections. With reasonable voltage, the kit should turn on if
there is no fault with the display.
Error message on the
display
Please refer to display manual for error code definition and if
needed, report the error code to us in a service ticket.
My kit looses power
over bumps
Check all connections to make sure all the plugs are all the way
connected. Check that the battery is locked to the cradle and not
loose. A momentary discontinuity in power will turn the kit off.
My battery cuts out
intermittently
If the battery is low on power, or you are going up a very steep
hill with a load on the motor, you will likely experience a voltage
cut-off if you have overloaded the controller, or dropped the
voltage below the low voltage cut-off, which is more prevalent at
low power. This isn’t a fault with the kit, it’s just physics.
I would like my
battery capacity
tested
Please contact us by submitting a support ticket to
arrange the return of your battery for testing. If the battery tests
above 85% capacity within the first year (from purchase date)
you will be liable for return freight. If it is tested and is
under capacity within the warranty period, your battery will be
replaced.
My range has
degraded
See next page.
Range extension:
If you’re not getting the approximate quoted range out of your e-bike system, take the
following steps:
1. Pedal Assist Sensor
If you haven’t installed the pedal assist sensor, you might not get the required range out
of your kit. The pedal assist modes only work for pedal assist input, not throttle. If you
use the throttle on low levels of pedal assist, this will not make any difference. Pedal
assist levels are only for pedal assist. The throttle is great fun to use, but even moderate
use of the throttle, with pedaling, is still going to burn through the juice a lot faster than
on a low-medium pedal assist setting.
2. Battery Indicator Lights – Full Charge. The LED and LCD battery level displays are a
basic indication of battery charge, but they are based on voltage which is variable and
not a true indication of battery capacity. The only accurate indication of a full charge, is
having charged the battery and the battery charger lights glowing green to indicate that
the battery is fully charged.
3. LED/LCD Indicator Light – Running Low
Some customers find that the LED/LCD charge indicator can lead them astray in terms
of how far the bike will go on low power. You don’t risk damaging the system by riding
all the way to the controller low voltage cutoff. Keep riding on pedal assist even after the
last battery indicator bar starts blinking.
4. Hills/ Riding Style/ Other Factors
The ranges quoted are from real world testing, with some hills and some flat areas. If
your commute involves a lot of hills, that’s going to impact on the range of the kit. 1,000W
kits are especially susceptible to being drained a lot more on hills (more than 250W kits
anyway). If you need to purchase a second charger to charge the battery at half way, or if
you need an additional battery, they will be available for purchase online.
5. General Tips
•
Make sure the wheels are running free (rubbing brakes can halve your range quite
easily)
•
Keep the battery topped up between uses
•
Make sure the tyre pressures are at optimum
•
Pedal harder when taking off and select the right gear for assisting up hills
If you would like to submit a Dillenger service ticket, please go to this URL:
https://dillenger.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
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TROUBLE SHOOTING CONTINUED...