Cheetah 160
Owner’s Manual
9. The glider can now be tensioned. Remove the split ring from the special bolt located through the rear
of the keel tube. Using the attached elastic cords initially and then holding the webbing, pull the cross
tube restraint webbing back. Check that the elastics are not twisted. Locate the stainless tang over the
stub of the bolt and replace the split ring. PUT THE RING IN IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT LEAVE IT
UNTIL LATER. If the tension feels too tight stop and see what is causing the problem. DO NOT
JUST FORCE IT. (Consult the trouble shooting area of this manual for possible causes.)
10. Push the battens home the last little bit. With a new sail the battens may not go fully home unless
pushed. The batten elastics should be put on double on each batten. The compression strut nearest the
wing tip can only be inserted when the glider has been tensioned. It locates on a plastic cleat on the
leading edge. This batten or compression strut is profiled on the Cheetah. Like all the other top surface
battens the curve should be up. (The top surface of the wing should be convex, not concave).
11. The under surface battens should also be inserted when the glider is tensioned. They should be pushed
home so that only the rope projects from the batten pocket. Put the most outboard U/S batten in first.
The under surface battens can be pushed home with another under surface batten.
12. Check that the inner washout rods are held out by their cords and after the other pre-flight checks make
sure that all the undersurface zips are done up.
13. Put in the nose batten. This is easier with the VB. on full. Some people prefer to put the nose batten in
before the wings are moved out at all or to leave the nose batten in the glider when packed. (If you do
this don't forget to check its profile when you check the profile of the other battens.)
14. NB The VB. must not be pulled on if the glider is laid flat on the ground: doing so will twist the cross
tubes. The glider should be stood on its control frame before operation of the VB.
15. Make sure that the wires are not twisted, then stand the glider on its control frame and attach the swan
catch, pip pin and safety washer. When lifting the nose of the glider it can be held by the webbing
hold on loop while attaching the nose wires. This is useful in windy conditions.
16. Make sure that the nose catch is correctly attached and then put the nose cone on.
The glider is now fully rigged. You should now make sure that you do a thorough pre-flight check before
you fly.
We suggest that if there is significant wind that the glider is left flat on the ground, nose into wind and
securely weighted or tied down at the nose until you are ready to fly. In light winds the Cheetah may be
left standing on its 'A' frame tail into wind- but be wary of gusts of wind, thermals and dust devils. Keep a
close eye on it.
Rigging on the A-frame
This is useful in confined spaces or where the terrain is likely to cause soiling or damage to the sail.
1. Lay the glider on the ground. If there is any wind the nose should be pointing cross or down wind.
Unzip the bag and take off enough ties to assemble the A frame. Assemble the A frame. Put the
bottom bar on and insert the two stainless pins from the back of the base bar and fit the safety rings.
Put the rings in immediately - do not leave it until later. Thread the VB. cord through cleat on the base
bar. Tie a 'stop' knot in the end of the cord.
2. If the nose batten was left in the sail move it onto its location and then stand the glider on its A-frame.
Take the bag and remaining ties off and remove the battens from the top of the wing.
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