©Abundant Flow Water Systems, Inc. 2009
Revised 9/09
[10]
7.
Once the pre-filters (the filters in the housings) have been changed, it is time to change the inline
filter(s) (the post filter, as well as the DI & pH/Mineral filter if the system has them.) To replace them,
remove the tubing and/or fittings from each end of the filter (refer to section on quick connect fittings
near the beginning of the manual if you are unsure how to do this) and replace in the new filter,
paying careful attention to the direction of flow as indicated on the filter, and ensuring the new filter is
installed in the same direction as the old filter. Do this with each inline filter your system has.
8.
If the system was unhooked to change the filters, hook it back up now. Open the angle ball valve or
feed water ball valve on the feed water line, and open the tank ball valve.
9.
Open the faucet, and tilt the system back and forth and side to side to help work the air out of the
lines
10.
Allow the system some time to start producing water from the faucet, depending on the system and
water pressure this may take up to 30 minutes. When the water first comes out it may be black as the
carbon fines in the post filter rinse out, this is normal. Once you are getting a steady flow of water
(anything from a steady drip to a small stream, depending on membrane size and water pressure),
shut the faucet off.
11.
Allow the system to fill the tank. Depending on the system and water pressure, this can take
anywhere from 1 - 5 hours.
12.
Once the tank has filled, open the faucet, allowing all the water to drain until flow from the faucet is
down to the slow drip or stream seen in step 10. This flushes the system, cleaning the filters and
preparing them for use.
13.
Repeat steps 11-12 at least once to ensure thorough flushing of the new filters.
14.
Your filters are now changed and the system is ready to use again.
Membrane:
The RO membrane will last an average of 2 –4 years, depending on water quality, water usage,
frequency of filter changes, and quality of filters used. Reduced water quality, reduced production rate,
or no production can be an indication of a fouled membrane, but there may not always be these signs to
tell you the membrane is bad. The best way is to monitor the rejection rate of the membrane using a
TDS meter. A functioning membrane should be removing a minimum of 90% of contaminates under
normal conditions. To test this, simply compare the TDS of your tap water to the TDS of the water from
the membrane (before it goes to any other filters). For example, if your tap water has a TDS of 400ppm,
after the membrane your TDS should be 40ppm or less. If you do not wish to use a TDS meter, it is
recommended that you change your membrane at least every 4 years.
To change the membrane
:
Note
: The tank will need to be emptied when replacing the membrane. If you would like to save the
water in the tank for use, follow the instructions below, opening the faucet and collecting the water from
the tank after turning the feed water off.
1.
Turn off the feed water supply. This is done by closing either the angle ball valve or the feed water
ball valve. The valve is closed when the handle is at a 90° angle to the tubing (when handle is NOT
parallel to tubing). If saving water from the tank, do so after closing the valve.
2.
Shut the ball valve on the tank. The valve is closed when the handle is at a 90° angle to the tubing
(when the handle is NOT parallel to the tubing).
3.
Open the faucet to release any remaining pressure.
4.
Pull the system out to where it can be easily worked with. If the system was installed with enough
tubing to do so, simply pull it out to where it can be worked on. If the system does not have enough
tubing, you will need to disconnect the lines to pull it out. (When changing the membrane, it helps to
have a towel handy, as some water may leak out.) Make note of which tube goes where to ensure
the system will be hooked up the same way it was.
Summary of Contents for ROFK5
Page 4: ...NOTES ...
