7
TROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the cost of an unnecessary service call.
Refrigerator Operation
The refrigerator will not operate
Check the following:
■
Is the power cord unplugged?
■
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?
■
Are the temperature controls set at the mid-settings?
NOTE: The refrigerator may take several hours to cool initially.
Adjusting the controls to coldest setting will not cool either
compartment more quickly.
The motor seems to run too much
Your new refrigerator may run longer than your old one due to its
high-efficiency compressor and fans. The unit may run even
longer if the room is warm, a large food load is added, doors are
opened often, or if the doors have been left open.
The refrigerator is noisy
Refrigerator noise has been reduced over the years. Due to this
reduction, you may hear intermittent noises from your new
refrigerator that you did not notice from your old model. Below are
listed some normal sounds with an explanation.
■
Buzzing - heard when the water valve opens to fill the ice
maker
■
Pulsating - fans/compressor adjusting to optimize
performance
■
Rattling - flow of refrigerant, water line, or from items placed
on top of the refrigerator
■
Sizzling/Gurgling - water dripping on the heater during
defrost cycle
■
Popping - contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially
during initial cool-down
■
Water running - may be heard when water melts during the
defrost cycle and runs into the drain pan
■
Creaking/Cracking - occurs as ice is being ejected from the
ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
Check the following:
■
Are food packages blocking the door open?
■
Are all bins and shelves pushed back into the correct
positions?
The doors are difficult to open
■
Are the gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets with mild
soap and warm water.
■
Has the door been opened and closed within the last few
seconds? Wait at least 30 seconds to reopen the doors.
Temperature and Moisture
Temperature is too warm
Check the following:
■
Are the air vents blocked in either compartment?
■
Are the door(s) opened often?
■
Has a large amount of food just been added to the refrigerator
or freezer?
■
Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
There is interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture is normal.
■
Are the air vents blocked in the refrigerator?
■
Are the door(s) opened often?
■
Is the room humid?
■
Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
■
Was an automatic self-defrost cycle completed?
Items in meat pan/crisper are freezing
The temperature inside the meat pan/crisper may become too
cold, especially when using some additional control panel
features. Adjust the meat pan control to the closed setting.
Ice and Water
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
■
Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm or switch (depending on
models) in the OFF position?
■
Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned
on?
■
Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice?
Wait 24 hours after ice maker hookup for ice production.
■
Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full
ice production to begin.
■
Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been
connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is
turned on.
■
Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow
24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
■
Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? The filter
may be clogged or installed incorrectly.
■
Is an ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm?
For models with an interior ice bin, remove the ice from the
ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
■
Is a reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? See “Water Supply Requirements”
in either the Installation Instruction booklet or the Use & Care
Guide.
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