OPERATION
13
CROSS-CUTTING AND RIP CUTTING
Cutting directly across the grain of a piece of wood is called crosscutting and is likely the most common type
of cut done with a track saw. Cutting wood lengthwise, or with the grain, is referred to as rip cutting (or also, sim-
ply just “ripping”). Both types of cuts are performed in the same manner with the exception of the methods used
to support and secure the work piece for cutting. After you have secured the work piece in position, positioned
the cord so it won’t be cut or hung up, performed the saw set-up adjustments, made the necessary measurements,
drawn a straight guideline, and put on your eye protection, you can begin the cutting operation.
1. Hold the tool firmly using both the front grip and rear handle. Use both gripping areas to best hold and control
the saw. If both hands are holding the saw, they cannot be cut by the blade.
2. Set the front portion of the saw’s base on the workpiece to be cut without the blade making any contact. Align
the line-of-cut indicator notch on the right side of the base with your guideline.
3. Turn the saw on by pressing the safety switch and the trigger. Wait until the blade reaches full speed.
4. Ease the tool forward over the workpiece surface, keeping it flat and advancing smoothly while following your
guideline until sawing is completed.
5. Once the cut is complete, release the switch trigger. Wait for the blade to completely stop. Check that the lower
guard has returned to position surrounding the blade. Now you can safely remove the saw from the workpiece
and set it out of the way.
6. To achieve clean cuts, keep your sawing line straight while smoothly advancing forward. Do not force the saw
forward too quickly in order to try and hurry up the process. Let the tool work at its own pace.
7. If the cut fails to properly follow your intended cut line, do not attempt to turn or force the tool back to the cut
line. Doing so may bind the blade and lead to dangerous kickback and possible serious injury. Instead, release the
switch trigger, wait for the blade to stop, and then remove the tool. Realign saw on a new cut guideline and start
the cut again.
8. Position yourself in a way that allows you to avoid the wooden chips and dust being ejected from the saw.
BEVEL CUTTING
For instructions on how to bevel the saw blade, see “Adjusting the Angle of the Cut” on page 9.
Bevel cuts are made using the same technique as crosscuts and ripping described in the previous section. The
difference is that the blade is set at a tilted angle between 0° and 45°. A bevel cut made at an angle to the edge of a
board is called a compound miter.
There are tools better suited for bevel and compound cuts than the hand-held plunge saw. Although the inner
line-of-cut indicator notch aids the operator in following the cut’s guideline, the tilted motor housing sometimes
obstructs the operator’s ability to see the blade, making accurate cuts difficult. Before taking on a project with nu-
merous compound or bevel cuts it’s suggested that the inexperienced saw user spends time making practice cuts in
scrap lumber to become familiar with and overcome difficulties associated with compound/bevel cutting.
NOTE: Keep in mind that bevel cutting may misallign or alter the rubber strip along the edge of your track.