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* For more detailed tech support notes & troubleshooting go to www.watergeneral.com
NOTE: Turn off the system before servicing.
Installation Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
No or low water production 1. Feed water valve is not turn on
2. Tubing is kinked
1. Turn on feed water valve
2. Straighten the tubing
Leak at filter housing
1. Housing is not tighten
2. Damaged or misaligned O-ring
3. Housing has cracks
1. Use filter housing wrench to tighten housing
2. realign or replace O-ring
3. Replace housing
Leak at fitting thread
1. Not properly tighten
2. Fitting has cracks
1. Use Teflon tape, re-tighten
2. Replaced it
Milky/Cloudy water
1. Air in system/filters
1. This is normal, continue use it for 2 weeks
Noise from drain
Saddle valve mounted too high
1. Lower the saddle valve
When system is making water, waste water to
drain is normal, when storage tank is full, drain
should stop
Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
Vibrating noise or very loud
high pitch noise
1. From the auto shut-off valve
2. auto-shut-off valve is hitting
against the steel plate
1. If the noise is unbearable, shut-off valve
should be replaced.
2. Use bubble wrap or paper to wrap
around the valve so it doesn’t hit the plate
Drain water never shut off
1. Auto shut-off valve is worn out
or becoming ineffective
2. Water supply pressure is 50 psi
or below
3. Cold water temperature
4. Filters are clogged up
1. Replace auto shut-off valve
2. Booster pump is needed for input water
pressure less than 50
3. the system makes water slower at cold
temperature
4. Replace filters
Low water production
1. Clogged filters
2. Kinked tubing
3. Clog flow restrictor
1. Replace filters
2. Straighten the tubing
3. Replace flow restrictor
Note: Clogged filters: How do you know if the filters are clogged up? For the pre-filters, sediment filters and carbon
filters; check the pressure difference before and after the filters. If there is significant difference in pressure that means
the filter is clogged. Turn OFF tank valve and cold water main valve then open the RO faucet to depressurize the system,
then disconnect the tubing after the bottom three pre-filters, then turn ON the cold water main valve. If you get very
strong water pressure, (as strong as water going into the system) then the bottom 3 pre-filters are not clogged. If the water
pressure is much smaller, unlike a burst of water pressure, then the bottom 3 pre-filters need to be replaced. Note:
Checking a clogged membrane uses different method. Use a water quality meter TDS meter to check the condition and
performance of the RO membrane (4
th
stage filter)
Note: Clogged flow restrictor: When you disconnect the black tubing going into the saddle valve, and the RO system is
in the processing of making water (by turning on the RO faucet), there should be a small steady flow of drain water. If
you do not get any drain water, the flow restrictor may be clogged, then you need to replace a new flow restrictor ASAP,
and discontinue using the system.
NOTE: If after few days of running the system, the problem comes back, then you may need to replace a new tank.
