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removed, the wheel is removed from the brake plate and the ease of movement of the brake lever on
the brake plate is checked. The brake cams may need to be relubricated so that they can move smoothly
again. With heavy use, for example by regularly driving uphill, the brake pads can wear down to such
an extent that mere tightening with the cable tensioner is no longer sufficient. In these cases, it can
happen that the brake cams turn past their dead centre and no longer reset themselves.
5.1 Chassis
The rod ends used in the chassis are subject to wear depending on driving style, mileage and weather
conditions. Worn angle joints can impair the driving characteristics and must be replaced. We
recommend checking the angle joints every 5000 km. Even when new, the transmission parts of the
steering and front axle already show a noticeable minimal play. If this play increases significantly, the
angle joints must be replaced. For all assembly work on the front axle, the track must be checked again
and readjusted if necessary (see chapter "Adjusting the track"). The track can also be misaligned during
extreme driving maneuvers where the front wheels collide with edges. Safety note: bent front axle
parts must never be straightened, they must be replaced. Even corrosion damage is safety-relevant here
and must be avoided by taking appropriate precautions (cleaning from salt and dirt, sealing, checks)
Trailing arms: These are the M-6 threaded rods with rod ends that run in the direction of travel from
the foot of the strut to the front through the wheel housing. When passing through the wheel arch, there
is an elastomeric rubber inside and outside as well as a rubber grommet. These buffer the steering and
spring movements of the trailing arm and ensure that there are no significant bending forces on the
trailing arm. When these elastomeric rubbers are worn out, they must be replaced. Sometimes simply
tightening the screw connection is enough. The important thing here is that the screw connection must
not be tightened too tightly, as this would result in excessive bending moments on the threaded rod.
After tightening the screw connection, you should still be able to turn the trailing arm in the elastic
bearing with your fingers.
5.2 Drive
Despite the encapsulation of the drive, it is unavoidable that dust and dirt get into the chain and gears.
Therefore, clean and re-oil the chain every 1000 km. A well-maintained drive can last a very long time.
If you put a lot of sand and dirt in the vehicle with your shoes and you lay the vehicle on its side (e.g.
due to maintenance or repair work), the sand can get into the drive. Therefore, remove the sand before
turning it over. Make sure that no small parts fall into the drive train and are taken along by the chain.
The water that collects in the water box drains down through the front frame through drainage holes.
This passage can become clogged. Then check the drain and remove the incrustations if necessary.
5.4 Setting the track
Precise alignment of the track is crucial for the smooth running of the vehicle and the life expectancy
of the tyres. The track is set at the factory with a gauge.
The track is set at the factory so that the distance between the rims at the front (measured at underbody
level) is about 2-4 mm less than behind the axle (measured at underbody level).
This means that the wheels come together 2-4 mm in the direction of travel. If you want to readjust the
track, dismantle the joint head of the tie rod at the spring strut foot. If you turn the joint further onto
the threaded rod, you shorten the tie rod and the wheels point further apart towards the front. If you
want to bring the wheels closer together towards the front, you have to lengthen the track linkage, i.e.
turn the joint head to the left. Attention !: At least 6 mm of thread must remain in the joint head and
