3
Fig. 11
Fig. 11
Inside the wire compartment are 2 lead wires: a black
wire and a white wire, both with crimp-on wire nuts, as
well as a green ground wire (Fig. 6). These are the
only wires that will be connected to the supply wires.
Place fingertips above the locking tab on the face of
the wire compartment, press on the cover and lift
up (Fig. 1). NOTE: You may have to disengage each
before it can freely be removed. Once
the wire compartment is free, remove it
and set it aside (Fig. 2). NOTE: Inside
you will find the hardware kit that
contains all the hardware necessary for
a normal installation.
1
Once you have determined the position the fixture
will be mounted, mark the corresponding knock-out
closest to the insulated multi-wire end and remove
it (Fig. 3). CAREFULLY REMOVE THE
KNOCK-OUT BY HAMMERING A FLATHEAD
SCREWDRIVER OR PUNCH UNTIL THE SURFACE
BREAKS. If the knock-out did not break free, use
pliers and bend it back and forth until it snaps off.
2
Attach a wire coupling (I) by inserting the threaded
end (from outside the fixture) through the knock-out.
Secure the wire coupling to the fixture's chassis by
tightening the fastener (from inside the fixture (Fig.
4). NOTE: Remember to have the wire coupling
screws oriented in a manner that allows you to
tighten/loosen the clamp after the fixture has been
attached to the mounting surface.
Insert the flexible whip or NM cable through the wire
coupling and tighten the clamp until it is secure (Fig. 5).
Allow enough wire length to make the connection.
WARNING: Make sure the POWER is OFF.
4
5
6
Using a wire cutter, cut each lead directly below the
wire nut (Fig. 7). When cutting, make sure there is
enough wire to complete the connection. After
removing the wire nut, carefully strip away about
3/8 in. of the insulation. NOTE: Do not remove the
crimp-on wire connectors and try to use them again.
Use the screw-on wire nuts (H) included in the
hardware kit.
Fig. 2
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
Fig. 4
Fig. 7
3
7
8
For safety and proper operation, your fixture must be
properly grounded. If you are unfamiliar with the methods of properly
grounding your fixture, consult a qualified electrician. A copper ground wire is
pre- attached to your fixture. If your electrical box is made of plastic and/or
has a green or has a bare copper grounding wire inside, the fixture grounding
wire and the electrical box ground wire should be connected together using
one of the small wire nuts (H). If your fixture is being connected using a
flexible whip or NM cable the fixture grounding wire and the electrical supply
ground wire should be connected together using one of the small wire
nuts (H). If your electrical box is made of metal and is already grounded,
secure the bare end of the fixture ground wire to the crossbar using the green
grounding screw on the crossbar. Connect the supply leads from the electrical
box to the fixture wire leads using the medium sized wire nuts (H) supplied in
your installation hardware kit as per the illustration. The black leads from the
fixture go to the black supply lead and the white leads from the fixture go to
the white supply lead. Tighten the wire nuts properly to prevent the wires from
coming loose. Tape the wire nuts to the wire using electrical tape (Fig. 8).
Carefully push any excess wiring back inside the electrical box (Fig. 9).
Align the lip on both ends with the slots on the
fixture chassis then press on the cover and slip
the edge under the clips (Fig. 10 & Fig. 11).
Fig. 9
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Secure the fixture chassis cover by placing
fingertips above the locking tab on the face of the
cover. Press on the cover and lock the front edge
under the locking tab (Fig. 12). NOTE: You may
have to engage each one individually before it can
be secured.
9
Fig. 12
Fig. 1
