7
Fig. 9. The outlet vent should never discharge
directly into the open air.
Position the air inlet and outlet vents as far away from one another as
possible e.g. diagonally opposite. The outlet vent should be located
high on a wall or in the ceiling, and should have the same cross-
section area as the inlet vent.
Spent air should always be led back into the area where the door and
air inlet are located - it must never be discharged directly into the
open air. The air flowing from the sauna is continually being
replenished in the room outside. This thermal ventilation method
always works, no matter whether the pressure in adjacent rooms is
negative or positive.
If there is a gap above the sauna ceiling, do not seal it completely. To
ventilate a cavity above the sauna, drill or cut at least one ventilation
hole into the cavity through the wall on which the sauna door is
located.
Alt. A: Outlet vent through the sauna wall (seen from above). The
vent is placed high up, near the ceiling.
Alt. B: Outlet vent through the cavity above the sauna ceiling (seen
from the side).
Alt. C: Outlet vent through a drum under the ceiling in the sauna
(seen from the side). The outlet duct should be placed in the angle
between the ceiling and the wall. The drum can be built of wooden
panelling and should have the same area dimension as the outlet
vent.
Important!
Avoid placing the outlet vent so that it is led into a part of the building
which is kept cold. This eliminates the risk for condensation.
Fig. 10. Recommendations for sauna construction:
A. Floor frame, corner posts, studs, ceiling frame.
B. Battens, rafters, vents.
C. 50 mm (1.7 in) mineral wool as heat insulation, approx. 20 mm
(0.8 in) air gap if towards an outer wall.
D. 12 mm (0.5 in) wooden panel in walls and ceilings. There should
always be at least 50 mm (1.7 in) of insulation behind the wooden
panel; no other material, such as particle board or plaster, may be
used.
E. Bonded, non-slip plastic floor-covering, extending approx. 50 mm
(1.7 in) up the walls behind the wooden panelling.
F. Inlet vents should always be fully open. May be fitted with a
shuttered vent on the outside.
G. Outlet vent, can be fitted with a sliding hatch to adjust through-
flow.
H. Benches of at least 22 mm (0.9 in) thick knot-free pine (or aspen
or lime).
I. Drainage channel (recommended in public saunas). Never place a
drainage channel or drain under the sauna heater.
Fig. 11. Heater guard.
The stones and the top of the sauna heater get very hot! In order to
reduce the risk of accidental contact, Tylö always recommend that a
heater guard be mounted as shown in the sketches.
Some words of advice:
•
There should never be a drain in a sauna. However, all public
saunas should have a drainage channel connected to a drain
outside the sauna (no drainage channel is needed in a private
sauna).
•
If the sauna has a window in the door or wall, treat the entire lower
moulding with boat varnish and seal the joint between the glass
and the moulding with a water-resistant silicone sealant. This
prevents any condensation on the glass from seeping into the joint.
•
Varnish the threshold and door handles a few times with boat
varnish to maintain the finish and simplify cleaning the sauna.
Benches, decorative edging and back supports should be oiled on
both sides with Tylö sauna oil.
Note: All other wood in the sauna should be left untreated.
•
Install floor decking only if the floor is slippery. Floor decking is
impractical and prolongs the drying time for any water spilt on the
floor.
•
Treat the bucket and ladle with boat varnish, or oil them with Tylö
sauna oil. The bucket will remain watertight and the wood will be
beautifully preserved. Never leave the wooden bucket in the sauna
after a sauna bath.
•
Before you enjoy your first sauna bath, heat the sauna room up to
approx. 90
°
C (194
°
F) and leave the heater to run for about 1 hour.
This will rid the room of that
“
new
”
smell.
•
Clean your sauna regularly. Scrub the benches and floor with soft
soap. It is a mild, gentle detergent and leaves a pleasant fragrance.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Fig. 12. Filling the stone compartment.
Only use stones of the dolerite type (Tylö sauna stones), as
“
ordinary
”
stones can damage the unit. Fill the stone compartment
around the elements from bottom to top, stacking the stones approx.
50 mm (1.7 in) above the front edge at the top of the unit. Do not
press the stones into place.
Fig. 13.
Never place stones above the side air chambers. This prevents air
circulation, the unit becomes overheated and the temperature limit
control is triggered.
Check the stone compartment at least once a year.
This is especially important for public saunas and saunas in frequent
use. Remove all stones from the compartment. Clean away any small
stones, grit, gravel and chalky deposits from the bottom of the stone
compartment. Re-use only stones which are whole and intact,
replacing them when necessary with new dolerite stones.
Temperature limit control.
Tylö sauna heaters have a temperature limit control built into the
terminal box on the heater. This is activated automatically if there is
any risk of overheating. More often than not, the cut-off is triggered
because of incorrect sauna ventilation or an incorrectly located sauna
heater. The problem could also be that the stone compartment has
been improperly filled. Contact an expert to reset the temperature
limit control.
Fig. 14. Built-in humidifier.
Fill the built-in reservoir (D, Fig. 14 and 15) with water before
switching on the sauna, and you will have a pleasantly humid sauna
right from the start, which accelerates and stimulates perspiration.
You can also add a few drops of sauna fragrance to the water in the
humidifier.
Note: Do not mix up the humidifier and the reservoir. See Fig. 15.
Sprinkling water on the stones
Should always be done with the ladle, never with a hose or bucket.
Note: The stones must be hot first.
