U N D E R B A R R E F R I G E R A T I O N
U N D E R B A R R E F R I G E R A T I O N
truemfg.com
TEC_TM_114 | REV. A | EN
04/26/2021
Page 22 of 28
TEC_TM_114 | REV. A | EN
04/26/2021
Page 23 of 28
truemfg.com
Maintenance, Care & Cleaning (cont.)
Important Warranty Information
THE CLEANING OF THE CONDENSER IS NOT
COVERED BY WARRANTY!
If you have any questions, please contact your local TRUE
Manufacturing Service Department. See the front cover for
locations and contact information.
• Condenser coils accumulate dirt and require cleaning every 30
days or as needed.
• A dirty condenser coil can result in non-warranteed repairs and/
or cabinet failure.
• Proper cleaning involves removing dust from the condenser by
using a soft brush, vacuuming the condenser with a shop vac,
or using CO₂, nitrogen or pressurized air.
• Do not place any filter material in front of the condensing coil.
• On most units, the condenser is accessible by removing the
cabinet's outer grill cover.
• If you cannot remove the dirt adequately, please contact your
licensed refrigeration service provider.
Fig. 6.
Carefully slide the condensing unit back into position and replace the bolts.
Fig. 4.
Remove condenser base bolts.
Fig. 5.
Carefully slide the condensing unit out.
Maintenance, Care & Cleaning (cont.)
Stainless Steel Care & Cleaning
CAUTION
–
DO NOT
use any steel wool, abrasive or chlorine-
based products to clean stainless steel surfaces.
Stainless Steel Opponents
There are three basic things which can break down your stainless
steel’s passivity layer and allow corrosion to form.
• Scratches from wire brushes, scrapers, steel pads, and other
items that can be abrasive to stainless steel’s surface.
• Deposits left on your stainless steel can leave spots. You may
have hard or soft water depending on what part of the country
you live in. Hard water can leave spots. Hard water that is
heated can leave deposits if left to sit too long. These deposits
can cause the passive layer to break down and rust your
stainless steel. All deposits left from food prep or service should
be removed as soon as possible.
• Chlorides which are present in table salt, food and water, as well
as in household and industrial cleaners. These are the worst
type of chlorides to use on stainless steel.
Stainless Steel Cleaning and Restoration
DO NOT
use stainless steel cleaners or similar solvents to clean
plastic or powder-coated parts. Instead, use warm soapy water.
• For routine cleaning and removal of grease and oil, apply white
vinegar, ammonia, or any good commercial detergent* with a
soft cloth or sponge.
• Stainless steel polish (e.g., Zep® Stainless Steel Polish, Weiman®
Stainless Steel Cleaner & Polish, Nyco® Stainless Steel Cleaner
& Polish, or Ecolab® Ecoshine®) and olive oil can act as a barrier
against fingerprints and smears.
• Degreasers* (e.g., Easy-Off® Specialty Kitchen Degreaser or
Simple Green® Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser) are excellent for
removal of grease, fatty acids, blood and burnt-on foods on all
surfaces.
*
DO NOT
use detergents or degreasers with chlorides or phosphates.
• For restoration/passivation or removing stubborn stains and
discoloration, Brillo® Cameo®, Zud® Cleanser, Ecolab® Specifax™
First Impression® Metal Polish, Sheila Shine, or talc can be
applied by rubbing in the direction of the polish lines.
NOTE:
The use of proprietary names is intended for example
only and does not constitute or imply an endorsement.
Omission of proprietary cleansers from this list does not imply
inadequacy.
8 Tips to Help Prevent Rust on Stainless Steel
Maintain the Cleanliness of Your Equipment
Avoid build-up of hard stains by cleaning frequently. Use
cleaners at the recommended strength (alkaline chlorinated or
non-chloride).
Use the Correct Cleaning Tools
Use non-abrasive tools when cleaning your stainless steel products.
The stainless steel’s passive layer will not be harmed by soft cloths
and plastic scouring pads.
Clean Along Polishing Lines
Polishing lines ("grain") are visible on some stainless steels. Always
scrub parallel to polishing lines when visible. Use a plastic scouring
pad or soft cloth when you cannot see the grain.
Use Alkaline, Alkaline-Chlorinated or Non-Chloride
Cleaners
While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the
industry is providing an ever increasing choice of non-chloride
cleaners. If you are not sure of your cleaner’s chloride content,
contact your cleaner supplier. If they tell you that your present
cleaner contains chlorides, ask if they have an alternative.
Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salts, as they can attack
stainless steel, causing pitting and rusting.
Rinse
When using chlorinated cleaners, you must rinse and wipe dry
immediately. It is better to wipe standing cleaning agents and
water as soon as possible. Allow the stainless steel equipment to
air dry. Oxygen helps maintain the passivity film on stainless steel.
Never Use Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) on
Stainless Steel
Even diluted, hydrochloric acid can cause corrosion, pitting and
stress corrosion cracking of stainless steel.
Water Treatment
To reduce deposits, soften hard water when possible. Installation
of certain filters can remove corrosive and distasteful elements.
Salts in a properly maintained water softener can also be to your
advantage. Contact a treatment specialist if you are not sure of the
proper water treatment.
Regularly Restore & Passivate Stainless Steel
Stainless steel gets its stainless properties from the protective
chromium oxides on its surface. If these oxides are removed by
scouring, or by reaction with harmful chemicals, then the iron in
the steel is exposed and can begin to oxidize, or rust. Passivation is
a chemical process that removes free iron and other contaminants
from the surface of stainless steel, allowing the protective
chromium oxides to re-form.
