Traxxas 5509, Руководство пользователя

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36 • Jato 3.3
Basic Tuning Adjustments
Alignment Settings
The alignment settings are critical for optimizing the performance of Jato.
Adjust your alignment as carefully and precisely as you possibly can.
Toe Adjustment
The wheels can be adjusted to point
straight ahead or have a toe-in or
toe-out setting. To help you remember,
look down at your feet. For toe-in, your
feet point towards each other. For toe-out,
your feet point away from each other.
The toe angle of the front wheels can be
adjusted by varying the length of the toe
links that connect the steering linkage to
the front steering blocks. The front toe
links are equipped with turnbuckles. The
lengths of the toe links can be adjusted by
turning them with the included
turnbuckle wrench. The toe angle of the
rear can be adjusted by changing the rear
aluminum tie bar. The factory tie bar
provides 4-degrees of toe in for each rear
wheel. Toe can be changed to 3 or 5-
degrees by installing optional tie bars (sold separately).
Toe: Base Factory Settings
Front:
0-degrees
Rear: 4-degree toe-in each side
Static Camber Adjustment
The wheels can be set to have either positive or
negative camber (see illustrations right). The camber
angle changes as the wheel moves up and down
through its range of travel. Static camber is the camber
angle at the wheel when the vehicle is set at its normal,
stationary ride height.
Static camber is adjusted by turnbuckle equipped
camber links, front and rear. Lengthen the camber links
with the supplied turnbuckle wrench to increase
camber (positive camber). Shorten the camber links to
decrease camber (negative camber).
Static Camber: Base Factory Settings
Front:
1-degree negative camber each side
Rear: 1-degree negative camber each side
Adjusting the Swaybars
If your conditions require more roll
resistance then shorten the length of the
attachment to increase the stiffness of
the swaybar.
If the vehicle is suffering from oversteer
or understeer you can adjust the front
and rear swaybars separately to cure the
handling problem. Stiffen the front
swaybar or soften the rear swaybar to
cure oversteer. Soften the front swaybar
or stiffen the rear swaybar to cure
understeer.
Securing the sway bar links closer to the
fulcrum (pivot point) of the bar will
provide a firmer setting (for smoother
surfaces). (1a and 1b) Securing the links
further away from the fulcrum will soften
the effect of the sway bar (for rougher
surfaces). (2a and 2b)
When to Use the Thick (Black) vs. the Thin (Silver) Bar
The stock white swaybars should be adequate for most situations.
When driving on very smooth surfaces (like fresh pavement or smooth
“blue-groove” off road tracks), the black (stiffest) bars are recommended.
When driving on loose low-traction surfaces, the silver (softest) bars are
recommended. The silver bars will upset the chassis less when driving
over bumps.
For very rough and/or broken surfaces where you may experience
different bumps on the left and the right side of the vehicle, you may
not want to use the swaybars at all. The use of the swaybars in these
conditions may toss the vehicle around too much, making it difficult
to control.
For caster and roll center
tuning see
Advanced Tuning
Adjustments on page 42.
Positive camber
Negative camber
All of the toe links are
installed on the truck so the
left hand thread indicators
point to the same direction.
This makes it easier to
remember which way to turn
the wrench to increase or
decrease toe link length (the
direction is same at all four
corners). Note that the
groove in the hex indicates
the side of the toe link with
the left-hand threads.
Left Hand Thread
Indicator
Left Hand Thread
Indicator
Front of Truck
Front of Truck
Left Front
Right Front
Le
ft
Ha
nd
Th
re
ad
s
Ri
gh
t H
an
d
(N
or
m
al
) T
hr
ea
ds
Decrease
Length
Increase
Length
A camber gauge (available
at your local hobby shop)
can be a useful tool for
alignment setting.
1a
F
R
O
N
T
1b
R
E
A
R
2a
F
R
O
N
T
2b
R
E
A
R
S
O
F
T
E
R
F
IR
M
E
R