THERMOROSSI BOSKY 25, Инструкция по установке, использованию и обслуживанию

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INCORRECT INSTALATION
INCORRECT CHIMNEY
The main problem here is knowing
How do I know that the wood fuel is at the correct moisture content for burning?
How do I know if I am burning the wood at the correct temperature?
Two pieces of equipment will help here, a moisture meter will tell you what the moisture content of
your wood is and a flue thermometer will tell you what temperature your appliance is running at.
Both of these are available from us.
COAL
If you wish to burn ordinary house coal on a central heating stove or boiler you need to know how to
do it, and that the stove or boiler you use has the necessary design features.
Recommended solid fuels
Manufactured - sunbrite singles, sunbrite doubles, coalite, phurnacite and supacite. Natural -
anthracite large & small nuts, selected housecoal (trebles/large nuts and doubles/nuts), taybrite, coke.
Oversize fuel lumps should be broken down to size. Stones and other foreign bodies should be
removed when fuelling.
Fuel should be stored under cover and ventilated, particularly manufactured fuels which must be kept
dry. Wet kitchen refuse should not be burned.
Avoid excessive fire temperatures with solid fuel - they are unnecessary and may do serious harm to
the cooker. The first symptoms of an overheated cooker is the formation of clinker (melted ash) which
will damage the fire bricks.
Damaged firebricks should be replaced as soon as possible but may be temporarily repaired with fire
cement.
The main problems are nearly always caused by: -
Putting too much coal on a fire which is almost out and then opening the ash pan door to increase the
draw. If you put masses of coal on a low fire and then open the bottom ash access door or the water
temperature thermostat, the result will be that the fire will produce too much smoke which cannot burn
or which when it bursts into flames will cause a small explosion in the firebox and also up the
chimney, the latter being particularly dangerous.
Running the appliance at too low a temperature causing the fire to smoulder continuously.
Not riddling the fire often enough so preventing the required amount of combustion air reaching the
fire.
The name of the game is to keep your fire burning healthily. Build it up with small amounts regularly
rather than large amounts infrequently and use coal no smaller than doubles. Cobbles are better
because they allow plenty of air to get around the firebox.
When loading the fire with a fresh change of coal, if it is possible rake the hot or glowing embers to
the front of the firebox and put the new coal to the back. In this way the new coal will burst into
flames more quickly and the bright embers will encourage the smoke to ignite quickly.
Slack, shale, singles or small fuel will simply stop air getting through and cause the sooting and
exploding problems, which are to be avoided. Regular riddling is of prime importance, as mentioned
earlier.
If you get it wrong you will normally do it in the first week or month. In some cases the result can be a
blocked chimney in less than a week. The part of the chimney, which blocks up first, will be the pipe
connecting the cooker to the chimney. This pipe must be as near vertical as possible for coal burning.
Rear outlet flues or bends are to be avoided at all costs, according to building regulations the
minimum angle a flue pipe can run is 45 dg., although we think a minimum of 60 dg is better.