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Page 6

Page 7

Changing the Pinion Gear/Gear Ratio

Before you change the pinion gear ask yourself why you are doing it. In general, if you change to a larger pinion the 

top speed will improve but you will see less acceleration and run time. This would only be advisable for really long 

track layouts with few tight turns. Changing to a smaller pinion will give you quicker acceleration and possibly a bit 

longer run time but a little less top speed. This would be good for short layouts or when running hotter motors. The 

pinion on the Mini-Slider offers the best balance of both. To change the pinion, remove the gear cover, loosen the 

motor screws, and slide the motor back. Use a pair of small needle-nose pliers between the motor plate and back of 

the pinion to push the pinion off. Place the new pinion on the end of the motor shaft and, using the flat of the pliers or 

a similar flat tool, push it on to the same position as the one removed. See Setting the Gear Mesh below.

Warning

: When running aftermarket motors, check with the motor manufacturer for correct gearing. Never over-gear 

the motor as it can cause overheating, damaging it and the speed control.

Setting the Gear Mesh

The motor screws should be slightly loose. Slide the motor forward allowing the pinion gear 

to mesh with the spur gear. Snug (not tight) the bottom motor screw and try rocking the spur 

back and forth. There is a slight bit of movement before the motor is forced to turn over. If not, 

pull the top of the motor back slightly and recheck. If there is too much slop between the gears, 

push the top of the motor forward. When set properly the wheels can be spun forward freely 

with very little noise. Make sure to tighten both motor screws and replace the gear cover before 

running.

Steering Servo Installation/Removal

Unplug the servo lead from the receiver. Remove the four small screws that 

secure the servo mount/chassis brace to the chassis. Use a screwdriver or small 

pliers to pop the steering link off of the servo, so it can be removed. There is no 

need to remove the servo mounts on either side as all service can be done with 

them on. Replace in the reverse sequence used to remove it.

Receiver/Speed Control (ESC) Installation/Removal

Unplug the power lead, motor leads and steering servo. Do not attempt to open the receiver or electronic speed 

control (ESC) as only a factory technician has the proper tools and parts to make any repairs necessary. The 

receiver and ESC are mounted with double-sided foam tape. Use your thumb and index finger at the bottom of the 

front corners to pull them from the mount. If this is difficult, ask for help. If necessary, carefully use a large flat blade 

screwdriver between the unit and the mount to pry it loose. Make sure you remove any left over foam or adhesive 

before remounting with common servo tape or hobby type foam tape.

Reassembly

Replace the idler gear and shaft into the center of the same right side of the gearbox. Replace any shims removed 

from the right bevel gear and slide it through the lower bearing. Replace any shims that came off of the left side bevel 

gear and allow it to slide through the lower bearing as you put the left gear box half back into position. Replace the 

screws and reinstall the rebuilt gearbox using the steps in reverse order that were used to remove it.

Changing the Spur Gear

Remove the gear cover by removing the three small screws. If you are replacing the spur gear with one of a different 

size (number of teeth), you must first loosen (do not remove) the two screws that secure the motor and slide it back 

slightly. Remove the mm nut at the end of the slipper shaft and all of the slipper parts on the outside of the spur gear 

as well as the old gear. Place the new spur gear into position and replace the slipper parts. If you have changed the 

size of the spur, see Setting the Gear Mesh below. After you have changed the spur gear, you will have to adjust the 

slipper as described elsewhere.

Step 3

Remove the top E-clip from the 

shock shaft. Remove the shock 

piston. Remove second E-clip. 

Remove the old cartridge.

Put a drop of oil on the shock 

shaft before installing a new shock 
cartridge.

Step 1

After removing the shock, 

 

push up on the lower spring  

cup and remove it from the 

shaft. Remove the spring and 

preload spacers.

Step 2

Turn the shock upside down 

and remove the black shock 

cartridge/shaft assembly 

 

from the shock body by 
turning it counterclockwise.

Note

: If you only wish to 

 

change or fill the shock fluid, 

 

skip to step 5.

Step 4

Reinstall the lower E-clip. 

 

Slide the shock piston onto  
the shock shaft against the  

E-clip. Reinstall the top E-clip. 

Step 7

Turn the shock over and use 

a #0 Phillips screwdriver to 

remove the small bleed screw 

at the top of the shock. Slowly 
push the shock shaft up until it 

stops. Excess fluid should flow 

out of the bleed hole. Slowly  
pull the shock shaft halfway 
back and replace the bleed 
screw. Use pliers to tighten  

the cartridge, being careful not 

 

to strip the plastics lobes on  
the cartridge.

Step 5

If you plan on completely 

changing the shock fluid 

(suggested), dump out the 

old fluid from the shock body. 

Carefully fill the shock body 

 

with fluid to the bottom of the 

threads inside the shock body.

Note

: Your Mini-Slider comes 

with 100wt shock fluid from 

 

the factory.

Step 6

Pull the shaft out so the 

piston is next to the 

 

cartridge and reinstall the 
assembly into the shock 

body, turn in a clockwise 

direction until snug—DO NOT 

TIGHTEN yet!

Step 8

Replace the spring and 

 

spring cup and test the shock 
action for smoothness and 

leaks. Retighten the bleed 

screw or cartridge if either 

leaks. Remount the shock on 

your truck.

** Production shock parts may differ from those shown in above drawings.

Servo Removal

 

Remove these 4 screws

Rebuilding/Refilling the Shocks

Rebuilding/Refilling the Shocks

Slider 1.indd   6-7

5/2/2007   2:47:08 PM

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