IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK
ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST
TEST #2
If engine
did
crank in test #1,
disconnect green wire at spade
connector and apply positive
voltage from the battery to the
yellow wire with the orange
stripe. The positive voltage can
also be picked up on the
solenoid terminal where the
fuse connects. Make sure the
green and black wire with the
eyelet is well grounded. If
engine doesn’t crank now,
replace the solenoid
.
Remember, all other tests are
useless unless these two tests
make the engine turn over.
TEST #1
Using a remote starter
switch or a suitable
device, make a connection
between the large
terminals on the solenoid.
If engine does
not
crank!!!
•
Battery may be weak or
dead
•
Starter may be bad
•
Battery cables may have
bad connections
•
Do
not
go to Test #2
until this test gives results.
TEST #3
If engine
did
crank in the first part of test #2,
reconnect green wire to solenoid. Using a jumper
wire attached to the positive terminal of the battery,
apply 12 volts to the red wire on terminal
B
of the
ignition switch. Try to crank, using the ignition
switch. If engine cranks, the fuse or the fuse holder,
or related wiring is defective somewhere back to the
solenoid.
TEST #4
If engine
did not
crank in test #3, this time move the
jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the battery,
to the green wire on
S
terminal of the ignition switch.
Ignition switch does have to be activated for this test. If
engine cranks now, ignition switch needs replacing.