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Cut the frets to lengths 1/4" wider than the fingerboard (so
they will overhang the edges by 1/8") . You will have enough
extra fretwire to practice fretting on the fretboard cutoff
supplied .
The frets are gently hammered into the fret slots . Pick a hard,
solid, flat work surface to do this . Use the cut-off piece of
fretboard to practice fretting before working on the real
thing . A fret hammer is recommended — it will have the
correct weight and surface hardness to drive in frets without
damaging them . If you don’t have a fret hammer, use a light
weight hammer with a smooth, clean head surface .
First, seat the ends of the frets by tapping them down at
each edge of the fretboard . This will leave the center of the
fret curved up above the fret slot . Next, work across the fret
with the hammer, seating it into the slot .
When each fret is seated, nip the overhanging ends approxi-
mately 1/64" away from the side of the fretboard (to avoid
marring the wood) . Fret nippers are ideal for this purpose,
providing a clean, flush cut . Wire cutters will do the job if
you don’t have fret nippers .
When all the frets are installed, place a flat hardwood block
on top of the frets and hammer on the block to further seat
the frets .
The frets pressed into the slots will slightly curve the
fretboard into a back-bow . Remove this bow by gently
“massaging” the fretboard, curving it in the opposite direc-
tion . Place a shim beneath one end of the fretboard and
press the board down against the table top . This will seat
the frets more securely, and the fretboard will flatten out .
Press gently on the board without much force: overdoing it
could crack the fretboard at one of the slots .
With a smooth mill file, remove the overhanging fret ends,
making them flush to the fretboard . Next, hold the file at
an angle and put a beveled shape onto the fret ends . An
angle of 60° is about right, but the steepness of this bevel
is a matter of personal preference .
Install the frets
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