Stewart MacDonald 5348, Руководство по сборке

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Referring to the body template and your transfered lines,
dry-clamp the braces and bridge plate into position . Using a
combination of clothespins, spring clamps or cam clamps .
Note, the two back braces have a slight arc from end to
end . This curve will create a gentle arch to the back of your
ukulele .
Add a label
You may want to put a label inside your uke with
your name and the date you built it . There are lots
of options, from a handwritten signature and date
right on the wood, to something created on your
computer and printed onto sticky-back label paper .
The body shape template shows the location of the
soundhole for positioning your label .
When you’re happy with your clamping setup, apply
Titebond glue to the braces, clamp them in place, and clean
up any glue squeeze-out . Allow 3 hours to dry .
Bracing the top and back
Hold the purfling strips in a stack, alternating white-black-
white-black-white . With a sharp X-Acto knife, trim one end
flush and square . Carefully set the strips into the channel,
with the squared end at the centerline at the top of the
soundhole .
When you complete the circle, carefully trim the purfling
with the X-Acto knife . Take care to trim the ends as perfectly
as possible . The fingerboard will not cover this butt-joint in
the purfling (as when building a guitar) . Better to cut the
purfling a little too long, then recut, than to create a gap by
trimming them too short .
Press the purfling into the rosette channel . Wick thin super
glue around the inside and outside of the plastic purfling .
You’ll see the glue soak into the mahogany, but it will blend
in later during finishing .
Install the soundhole purfling
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