Stewart MacDonald 5348, Руководство по сборке

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Locate the tailblock, draw a centerline on each end, and
notice that one end has a bevel on what will be the inside
of the instrument . This beveled end will go against the top
of the ukulele .
With the sides still sitting flat on your bench, dry-clamp
the tailblock in place on the centerline of the sides . Reuse
Attach the tailblock
Mark the centerlines: Place the ukulele sides into the body
assembly jig . The split in the sides goes at the neck end,
aligning with the centerline . Adjust the sides so they follow
the pencil outline that you drew earlier .
When the sides are properly positioned, use the centerline
on the mold to draw a centerline on the inside of the tail
end of the sides . Take the sides out of the jig and extend the
centerline to the outside of the sides .
Locate the neck block (it's U-shaped) . Measure to find the
center, and mark it on the top and bottom of the block
(pictured) .
The side of the neck block that
touches the ukulele’s sides is curved .
A clamping caul with matching cur-
vature should be made from scrap
wood to use when gluing . Save this
caul for when you glue the tailblock,
It will fit both the neck block and
tailblock areas .
Dry clamp the neck block: The side of the uke that is placed
down on the bench will become the top of the instrument .
Write “top” and “back” on the respective sides of the neck
block, for reference in future steps .
Use a small piece of wax paper between the neck joint
and your bench, wrapping it up the outside, so that it goes
between the sides and the caul . The wax paper will protect
your bench and caul from the glue .
Using clamps of your choice (bar clamps work best), dry
clamp the neck block in place .
Attach the neck block
It’s now critical that the uke’s
sides and neck block are flush
to the bench . The centerline on
the neck block should line up
with the split in the uke’s sides
(pictured) .
The sides will extend above the
neck block slightly, and will be
trimmed down later) .
When you’re satisfied with the dry clamp, take it apart, apply
Titebond glue, and spread it out evenly on the neck block .
Clamp and clean up any squeeze-out with a scraper and/or
damp paper towel . Let the glue dry for 3 hours .
the radiused caul from the previous step . Use wax paper to
protect your bench and caul . When the assembly is lined up
and square, take off the clamps and glue it up, and reclamp .
Clean up squeeze-out, and let the glue dry for 3 hours .
BUILDING TIP: Cauls
You’ll need scrap wood to make cauls that will be
used throughout assembly . Cauls are used to apply
uniform pressure while the glue dries, and to protect
the instrument’s surface from the clamps .
BUILDING TIP: Dry clamping
It’s important to try fitting and clamping the kit
pieces before you use glue . Practice a “dry run” to
make sure you have all the clamps and cauls needed
before glue is applied .
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