2
Soldering: Always clean up soldered joints as you progress, as it’s easier in the long run. For an understanding of soldering it
would pay to visit the following sites for information on soldering before attempting your first kit.
http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/articles/article012.html
http://www.dccconcepts.com/index_files/DCCsoldering1.htm
I’m not the perfect solderer as I also end up with solder runs but I scrape, file and clean the general area so that it doesn’t show as
much. It may take a few minutes on some joints but the end finish on your model is worth it!
It is far easier to use the wire brush pictured below in the Dremel to clean parts just before assembly. Holding the unit at a slight
angle and lightly letting the brush polish the next item to be soldered works very well. It is the simplest method I have found.
Tools needed: variable temperature soldering iron, solder, flux, small files, sanding sticks, fine grade sandpaper 800-1200 grit,
Selley’s Kwik Grip water-based, ‘Duck Bill’ (flat – no teeth) and long nose pliers, ‘Hold ‘N’ Fold’, superglue, Exacto knife, scissor
clamps, weights, soldering aids, Kapton Tape, Blu-Tak, 0.3mm drill bit, pin vice, tweezers, the ‘Wedge’ by Spirit Design for handrail
folding available separately from my website.
Other items: Bachmann S4 loco, Concor SW1200 or LifeLike SW9 for the mechanism, paint, modelling putty to fix up uneven
soldering and weathering powders. These notes cover the Bachmann S4 mechanism only. If you plan to use a LifeLike chassis, a
Spirit Design plywood chassis is available separately. It’s easier than the Y class chassis to put together if you have done this kit in
the past
Assembly Instructions: These instructions may seem long-winded but it’s harder to describe and better for your understanding
than just putting a few pictures in. Some steps require close attention and they are highlighted
in bold and italics!
Any text in
Green can be done at that point or later on in the construction.
Parts referred to in the text are marked (P1), (P2) etc and there is
a coloured picture of the parts to aid you. All brass parts and tabs holding the parts to the etch should be trimmed back and filed
smooth after removal. The main mansard long hood has been performed to aid your construction.
Clean parts in the etch with
800-1200 grit sandpaper /emery before soldering a piece into your kit assembly or with a Dremel fitted with a small
conical steel brush - see picture below
More Reference photos:
http://www.victorianrailways.net/motive%20power/t320_346.html http://www.robx1.net/index/index.htm
http://www.pjv101.net/index.htm
Train Hobby T class 2nd series ‘High Cab’ profile book
Assembling the kit:
Walkway:
1.
Cut the centre section holding the small parts away from the main walkway etch (P1)
2.
Remove the walkway (P1) from the etch brass kit, clean edges and fold the valance sides up at 90degrees using a ‘Hold ‘n’
Fold’ or between 2 bars of hardened ground steel. You may need to take the slight curve out of the brass etch as the brass
is manufactured from a sheet roll. Then ensure the walkway is flat and straight before the next step and solder the inside
edge sides to add strength to the valance and walkway deck. Once soldered straighten and flatten the decks using pliers,
steel blocks or whatever aids you have
3.
If you are making the VR blue and gold era loco without the cutaway valances, you will need to fill the dotted line area with
solder from the inside after placing masking tape along the front to stop excess solder leaking through. For the V/Line era
gently remove the dotted area with sharp scissors or scribe through slowly at the rear along the fold line. Not all V/Line
locos had the cutaway valance, see table listed later on for details
4.
Bend ends of the walkway (headstock skirts) to 90 degrees
5.
Fold a staircase side (P2), then the bottom of step up to meet the side and solder. Repeat for all 4 (P2) staircases
To help keep items straight and to aid you in holding parts build the simple MDF solder board shown later. Make it
whatever size you want but I made mine from 6mm and 3mm MDF boards
Left:
Small
conical brush
for polishing
brass etches
as needed.
Right:
Drum
sanding unit
for frame
grinding of
locomotive
mechs
VR Blue and
Gold era
walkway
shown here
