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Singer
288

35

Sewing the Professional Way

Construction Details

SEAMS
Lingerie Seams
• Pattern Disc: No. 1

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: To suit fabric
• General Purpose Presser Foot
• General Purpose Needle Plate

To make a lingerie seam both durable and flexible, use
a zig-zag stitch. This treatment is particularly suitable
for bias seams.
1. Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch width selector

at

on the wrong side.

2. Press both seam allowances in the same direction.
3. From the right side, top-stitch with zig-zag pattern.
letting the needle alternately enter the seam line and
seam thickness.

Seams in Knit Fabrics

• Pattern Disc: No. 1 or 37

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position:

• Stitch Length: 1 -1.5
• General Purpose Presser Foot
• General Purpose Needle Plate

A narrow, closely spaced zig-zag stitch is ideal for
seaming knit fabric. It is particularly desirable for
underarm seams where elasticity and give are needed.

Where a stay is needed to prevent stretching at neck-
line and shoulder seams for example this same stitch
can be used to apply seam tape. For a flat, smooth
finish:

1. If seam is curved, pre-shape tape to fit by steam

pressing.

2. Baste tape in place.
3. Stitch, allowing needle to enter seam tape and

seam allowance alternately.

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Содержание 28-8

Страница 1: ...ure reference you record the serial number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided Refer to illustration below for location of serial number on your machine A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Copyright e 1978 The Singer Company All Rights Reserved Throughout The World Serial No ...

Страница 2: ...ign Adjusting Stitch Placement Adjusting Stitch Length and Needle Thread Tension Satin Stitching 5 Twin Needle Stitching Inserting the Twin Needle Threading the Needle Machine Settings 6 Free Motion Stitching Preparation Script Lettering Floral Designs 7 Sewing the Professional Way Construction Details Scams Darts Hems Zippers Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics Buttons Buttonholes Decorative Touches ...

Страница 3: ...feed See item 21 13 Needle Plate provides working surface around the feed 14 Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replace ment of bobbin 15 Needle Clamp holds single and twin needles It is designed to eliminate the possibility of inserting needle backwards 16 Stitch Width Selector controls the width of zig zag stitching and sets the machine for straight stitching 17 Needle Position Selector plac...

Страница 4: ...on and Stitch Balancing Control allows you to stitch backwards and to balance stitching in four step buttonholes Pushing the button reverses stitching direction rotating the button balances side stitching of buttonhole 21 Feed moves fabric as it is being stitched 22 Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply is easily removed for winding 23 Presser Foot Lifter raises and lowers the presser foot 24 Ele...

Страница 5: ... 2020 needles for all purpose sewing Style 2028 needles for twin needle work Style 2045 needles for sewing synthetic knit and stretch fabrics Changing the Needle 1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you 2 Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove needle 3 Insert new needle in clamp with the flat side of the needle to the back push it up as far as it will g...

Страница 6: ...equires close control Buttonhole Foot This transparent presser foot has guidelines to simplify buttonhole placement and make it easy to gauge but tonhole length See instructions for making buttonholes Zipper Foot The zipper foot makes it easy to place stitching close to a raised edge Thus it is useful for corded seams page 70 as well as zipper insertion Special Purpose Foot Use this transparent fo...

Страница 7: ...that shank opening fits over the hinge pin Press down on presser foot screw until shank snaps onto foot To remove and replace shank of snap on presser feet follow instructions below for one piece presser feet Changing One piece Presser Feet Raise needle to highest position Raise presser foot lifter Loosen presser foot screw you do not need to remove the screw and remove the foot Hook new foot arou...

Страница 8: ...e plate is used for button sewing free motion work and darning Removing and Replacing Needle Plate Raise presser foot Turn hand wheel toward you until the needle is in its highest position Open the slide plate Lift needle plate up and to the right until it snaps free Insert new needle plate by placing it under the clamping pin push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place Clo...

Страница 9: ...s surface for quick recognition See illustra tions for the patterns Changing Pattern Discs Move stitch width selector to straight stitch position Raise pattern disc lid Pull pattern disc releaser up and remove the disc Replace with another disc making certain that the numbered side of the disc is face up and that the notch in the center of the disc fits over the positioning key on the disc holder ...

Страница 10: ...s the hem fold in front of the needle for blindstitch hemming To attach guide loosen press er foot screw and slip guide between screw and press er foot shank LINT BRUSH The lint brush is used for cleaning your sewing machine CONTAINER OF OIL Container of SINGER oil Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you will take a few moments to keep it in good operat ing condition Note Befor...

Страница 11: ...g to your electrical outlet CAUTION Disconnect the powerline plug from the electrical outlet when changing needles presser feet or needle plates or when leaving the machine unat tended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller OPERATING MACHINE To turn on the machine and sewing light press the power and light switch located on the motor I...

Страница 12: ...he motion of the treadle Practice this motion until you are able with your feet alone to re start the machine with the hand wheel turning toward you and maintain a steady speed When you have become accustomed to the treadle motion tighten the hand wheel knob by turning it away from you Place a piece of material under the presser foot and lower the presser foot lifter Now operate the machine withou...

Страница 13: ...e pique poplin cashmere flannel mohair felt taffeta satin challis eyelet gingham crepe broadcloth MEDIUM velvet crepe de chine shantung suiting satin crepe velveteen corduroy fleece flannel gabardine felt serge mohair HEAVY brocade taffeta satin crepe corduroy linen drapery fabric burlap suiting gabardine poplin denim ticking canvas VERY HEAVY denim duck canvas sailcloth coating blanketing upholst...

Страница 14: ...rd you until needle is at its highest position Loosen the hand wheel knob with your right hand while holding the hand wheel with your left hand Open the slide plate and lift out bobbin Procedure 1 Place spool of thread on spool pin Lead thread around the bobbin winder tension disc and through small hole in bobbin from inside out Place bobbin on spindle ...

Страница 15: ...Thread end will snap off after a few coils have been wound 3 When required amount of thread has been wound winding will stop when bobbin is full push spindle to left cut thread and remove bobbin 4 Tighten hand wheel knob by turning it away from you with your right hand while holding hand wheel with your left hand ...

Страница 16: ...d insert bobbin in bobbin case 2 Pull thread into notch A in bobbin case draw it toward lef and into slot B 3 Draw approximately eight centimeters 3 of thread diagonally across the bobbin 4 Close slide plate allowing the thread to extend through the slot between the slide plate and the needle plate ...

Страница 17: ...t spool For large spools of thread use the large holder with the wide end against the spool For medium size spools of thread use the large holder with the narrow end against the spool For very small diameter spools use the small holder 3 Raise presser foot and be sure needle is in its high est position 4 Lead the thread through all threading points as illus trated 5 Thread the needle from front to...

Страница 18: ...le plate 1 Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate 2 Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop 3 Undo the loop with your fingers 4 Place both needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and lay them diagonally to the left ...

Страница 19: ...e position selector places the needle in left center or right stitching position You will need to set it before you start running the machine Before moving the selector always make sure the needle is out of the fabric To position the needle slide the lever to left or right until Indicator line is under desired settings Straight Stitching Normally you will use the center needle position But if you ...

Страница 20: ...n the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or mar the appearance of decorative work To determine the correct tension make a test on a sample of your fabric If the stitches look loose increase tension If the fabric puckers decrease tension To increase tension turn to higher number To decrease tension turn...

Страница 21: ...titch length turn dial counterclock wise to a higher number For reverse stitching push in on push button located in center of dial hold in until reverse stitching is com pleted then release push button Push button can be pushed in while machine is sewing REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The pressure regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric Correct pressure is important to ...

Страница 22: ...sser foot and the straight stitch needle plate that come with your accessories Sewing a Seam PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time saver and can be used when you sew easy to handle fabrics Use fine pins and place them so that They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line They do not extend beyond both sides of the presser foot Never place pins on the u...

Страница 23: ...nch seam 15mm for example line up your fabric with line 5 3 Position needle in fabric about twelve millimeters 1 2 from the edge 4 Lower the presser foot Depress and hold reverse stitch push button and run the machine at a slow speed 5 While holding reverse stitch push button backstitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement 6 Release push button and stitch forward to end of fabric using the selected...

Страница 24: ...ave presser foot in down position Depress and hold reverse stitch push button and run the machine at slow speed 2 While holding reverse stitch push button backstitch about 12 millimeters 1 2 in from edge of fabric to reinforce end of seam Then release push button 3 With the take up lever at its highest point raise the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing it back and to the left 4 Cut thre...

Страница 25: ...Singer 288 25 CURVED SEAMS Follow the same steps as for straight seams except use a shorter stitch length for greater elasticity and strength Inside Curves Outside Curves ...

Страница 26: ... as buttonholes and button sewing seaming blindstitch hemming and mending Others are purely decorative and will give an individual touch to your clothes and home The pattern discs that come with your machine pro duce the stitches illustrated on the following page The numbers indicate pattern disc numbers For instructions on changing pattern discs see section on Chaging Pattern Discs ...

Страница 27: ...sition selector make sure needle is above fabric A needle position selector setting of places the needle in center stitching position Selector settings and place the needle in left and right stitching position at stitch width settings narrower than the max imum width Selector setting center is used most often Settings left and right are for special place ment of stitching For example a left settin...

Страница 28: ...titch of whichever pattern you select The higher the number the more open or farther apart your stitch will be The area between 1 and 0 of the selector is used for the fine adjustment of zig zag satin stitching Needle Thread Tension Zig Zag stitching requires less tension than straight stitching Notice the stitching on your test sample The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without caus i...

Страница 29: ...sition Stitch Length Between 0 and 1 Special Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH 1 Turn selector dial to 1 and run the machine at a slow speed 2 While running machine gradually turn dial toward 0 until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth satin stitch ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig za...

Страница 30: ...t you wind an extra bobbin with the thread you plan to use for replacement in case the bobbin should run out of thread Note When raising bobbin thread hold both needle threads Inserting the Twin Needle Before inserting the twin needle place the needle posi tion selector at left and stitch width selector at 1 Raise needle to its highest position 2 Loosen needle clamp screw and remove single needle ...

Страница 31: ... disc as they pass around tension assembly 3 Pass only one thread through the last thread guide before the needle Machine Settings STRAIGHT STITCHING Stitch Width Needle Position only General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate Speed Moderate ZIG ZAG STITCHING Pattern Disc Any zig zag stitch Stitch Width only Needle Position only General Purpose Presser Foot open patterns or Special ...

Страница 32: ...titches from a hairline to the full width of whichever stitch width set ting you have chosen chosen by the way you move your hoop If you move it sideways and stitch ina hori zontal line you will get a hairline if you move it for ward and backward and stitch in a vertical line you will get full stitch width Thus you can produce a ribbon like effect in script lettering or create delicate flower desi...

Страница 33: ...awn or organdy 4 Place work in embroidery hoop Be sure fabric is held taut 5 Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension 6 Hold needle thread loosely and turn handwheel toward you tp bring bobbin thread up through fabric at start of design Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric 7 Stitch following outline of lettering Maintain an even rate of speed for uniformly s...

Страница 34: ...er patterns To embroider flower designs prepare the machine and your fabric by following the same steps as for script lettering On your test sample try out different stitch width settings to determine the one or more best suit ed to your design When filling in outlines place stitches in parallel lines shifting the hoop movement as appropriate to the design For a smooth satin stitch that will catch...

Страница 35: ...g zag pattern letting the needle alternately enter the seam line and seam thickness Seams in Knit Fabrics Pattern Disc No 1 or 37 Stitch Width Needle Position Stitch Length 1 1 5 General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate A narrow closely spaced zig zag stitch is ideal for seaming knit fabric It is particularly desirable for underarm seams where elasticity and give are needed Where ...

Страница 36: ...n be eliminated 1 Stitch along seam line 2 Cut seam allowance away close to the line of stitching 3 Turn to the right side gently roil out curved edges with thumb and forefinger and press flat Seam Finishes Pattern Disc No 1 2 37 or 350 to suit fabric Stitch Width Needle Position Stitch Length 1 3 depending on choice of stitch and fabric General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate Tr...

Страница 37: ...aight Stitch Needle Plate Making the welting 1 Buy cable cord at a notions counter of desired size 2 Cut bias strips of fabric width three times the diam eter of the cord plus 30 millimeters 1 1 4 3 Sew strips together on the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length 4 Fold resulting strip over cord with raw edges even 5 Attach zipper foot to the left side of the needle For instructions on attachi...

Страница 38: ...itch welding to the right side of a single seam edge guide the edge of the foot next to the cord but do not crowd 3 Place the attached welting over the second seam edge and pin or baste together 4 Place the work underthe needle with the first stitch ing on top so that you can use it as a guide 5 Stitch this time crowding the foot against the cord ...

Страница 39: ...indstitch Hem Guide 1 Mark turn and press hem in the usual way 2 Baste a guideline at least 1 3cm 1 2 from the top edge of the hem so that the basting will not be caught by the flange of the blindstitch hem guide 3 Attach the blindstitch hem guide to the presser bar 4 With the work wrong side up and the bulk of the fab ric to the left turn the hem under creating a soft fold about 6mm 1 4 from top ...

Страница 40: ... Stitch Length 1 5 to 2 5 Zipper Foot General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate Speed Moderate Attaching the Zipper Foot The zipper foot is snapped onto the shank When the zipper is to the right of the needle Move spacer on zipper foot to left to allow shank to enter right side of foot so that needle will enter right notch in foot When the zipper is to the left of the needle Move spacer on z...

Страница 41: ...CH CHART Stretch Stitch Where to Use General purpose stretch sewing Lingerie Seams Seam finishing Edge finishing Attaching elastic Attaching elastic and stretch lace Lingerie and swimsuit construction Girdle seams Seam finishes Castings and waistband finishes Plain and overedge seams that stretch Waistband neck band and seam finishes in knitwear and slacks Swimwear construction Attaching stretch l...

Страница 42: ... panne velvet and similar syn thetic knits apply gentle tension by holding fabric taut in front and back of the presser foot as you sew For elasticized fabric stretch lace and knits with an unusual amount of elasticity apply firm tension in front and back of the presser foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are being placed The Semi Stretch pattern disc 37 with a narrow stitch width is ideal fo...

Страница 43: ... knit and stretch fabrics It is ideal for stretchable construction seams and edge finishes for necklines pockets and collars in sportswear and swimsuits Pattern Disc No 350 Stitch Width Needle Position Stitch Length 1 5 to 2 5 General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate 1 Make a test sample to adjust stitch length and nee dle thread tension to suit the fabric Tension should be lighte...

Страница 44: ...tic over fabric and pin the two together at these points 3 Take a few stitches to anchor elastic in place then stretch elastic between pins as you sew using both hands to hold elastic taut in front and back of the presser foot PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS Pattern Disc No 37 Stitch Width Needle Position Stitch Length 1 to 2 General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate A narrow closely spaced se...

Страница 45: ...begin to stitch the needle should enter into the right hole of the button Take six or more zig zag stitches to attach button End on left side 4 To fasten stitching adjust stitch width to and take three or four stitches 5 Remove work draw threads to underside fasten and trim FORMING A THREAD SHANK To form a thread shank sew over the blade of a regu lar machine needle Position button and lower butto...

Страница 46: ...ead or embroidery thread and reduce needle thread ten sion to slightly less than normal 3 Use a size 11 needle for embroidery thread and 2 size 14 needle for cotton thread BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment evenly spaced and on the grain of the material Mark the center line of the garment This guideline can b...

Страница 47: ...ttonholes should be equal When a line of buttonholes crosses the machine be sure that one buttonhole will fall exactly on the waistline Then measure the other buttonhole markings from that point BUTTONHOLE LENGTH First decide how long the opening needs to be To find the right length cut a small slit in a scrap of fabric and gradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily Then add at lea...

Страница 48: ...abric during button holing Pattern Disc No 1 Buttonhole Foot Procedure Follow the instructions beginning on page 88 for preparing and marking the garment Press the needle above the fabric Position the work under the buttonhole foot aligning center marking of buttonhole with center score line on the foot Align end marking of buttonhole with the horizontal score lines on the foot Set reverse stitch ...

Страница 49: ...ching Raise the needle above the fabric Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to step 3 Stitch to within two stitches of the end of the buttonhole point D Step 4 Bar Tack Raise the needle above the fabric Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to step 4 Take four or five stitches to point E For a smooth satin appearance and greater durability stitch around the buttonhole a second time by repeating ...

Страница 50: ...de of the buttonhole are too open rotate the push button clockwise from its neutral position to increase density of stitching 3 If the stitches on the left side of the buttonhole are too open rotate the push button counterclockwise from its neutral position to increase density of stitch ing After buttonhole stitching is completed return push button to its neutral position indicator dot directly be...

Страница 51: ...bric Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gar ment and include interfacing if appropriate Follow the instructions beginning on page 88 for preparing and marking the garment Stitch Width Settings You will use two stitch width settings one for side stitching and one for the bar tacks the closing at each end of the buttonhole These stitch widths may vary according to the size of the buttonhole r...

Страница 52: ...dth set ting bringing work to point C Step 2 Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take about six stitches Stop at point D Step 3 Side Stitching Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching Complete work to point E Leave needle in fabric Step 4 Final Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take about six stitches ending at point F Step 5 Fastening Stitch To s...

Страница 53: ...oft fine fabrics shell edging makes an attractive finish for narrow hems or bias folds Pattern Disc No 350 Stitch Width Needle position Stitch Length To suit fabric General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate 1 Make a test on a sample of your fabric to find out if your thread tension stitch width and stitch length 2 Place folded hem basted if necessary or bias fold under presser foot...

Страница 54: ... settings 2 Transfer the design by tracing usually to the right side of the fabric 3 If the fabric is soft or loosely woven baste a backing of lawn or organdy onto the wrong side Finding the beginning of the pattern unit When you use decorative stitch patterns in a motif always start stitching at the beginning of the pattern unit that is at the beginning of the arrowhead or what ever pattern you a...

Страница 55: ... stitching between 0 and 1 2 Outline the entire design with appliqu3 4 stitching 3 Trim away excess fabric on the outer edges of the stitching Remove basting Method No 2 1 Insert pattern disc for desired applique stitch 2 Adjust stitch width selector for straight stitching and outline the entire design with a short stitch 3 Trim raw edges to the stitching 4 Adjust stitch width selector to desired ...

Страница 56: ...th About 1 or to suit fabric General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate 1 Trim ragged edges 2 Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for rein forcement It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since you will be bringing the edges of the tear together in the next step 3 Stitch on the right side bringing the edges of the tear together 4 Shorten stitch length at ends and corners t...

Страница 57: ...ng about 25 millimeters 1 at each end Press seam open BLANKET BINDING Often you can make an old blanket look almost new by replacing the binding Pattern Disc No 2 Stitch Width Needle Position Stitch Length 1 1 5 General Purpose or Special Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate 1 Remove worn binding 2 Baste new binding securely 3 Increase stitch length if necessary so that blanket feeds ...

Страница 58: ... 2 5 General Purpose Presser Foot General Purpose Needle Plate Pressure Dial 0 1 If area to be darned is open baste an underlay in place 2 Place area to be darned under the presser foot Lower the presser foot and start stitching alternate ly drawing the fabric toward you and gently pulling it away from you until area is filled with parallel lines of stitching 3 For additional strength cover area w...

Страница 59: ...ork under needle and lower presser bar to engage thread tension Procedure 1 Hold needle thread loosely with left hand turn hand wheel toward you and draw bobbin thread up through fabric Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric 2 Reinforce the area to be darned with stitching 6 mil limeters 1 4 from the edge 3 Stitch across opening moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower lef...

Страница 60: ...uently lubricate it more often than the guidelines suggest CAUTION Before cleaning and lubricating your machine disconnect the power line plug from your electrical gullet EVERY FEW WEEKS Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts With a soft cloth clean Tension discs Take up lever and thread guides Presser bar and needle bar Bobbin case All machine surfaces If necessary dampen the cloth Do not use de...

Страница 61: ...down and turn it toward the rear as illustrated 4 To remove bobbin case Push bobbin case toward the rear and lift it up and out toward the front 5 To replace bobbin case Guide forked end under the feed Draw bobbin case toward you so that front of case is under the position plate as illustrated Turn the bobbin case hold down toward you to lock bobbin case in position 6 Replace bobbin needle plate a...

Страница 62: ...face plate Raise top cover lid loosen screws A B C and D and lift arm lop cover off machine Loosen screw E and remove face plate Note Screws A B C and D are designed to remain in the top cover to prevent them from being lost Removing Top Cover Removing Face Plate ...

Страница 63: ...il to ail places indicated by After oiling replace face plate first and then arm top cover Sew a few lines of stitching on a scrap of material to remove excess oil Apply a small amount of SINGER gear lubricant to gears as shown Never apply oil to gears SINGER gear lubricant and oil are available for pur chase at your Singer store ...

Страница 64: ... into machine Stitch width and needle position selectors are cor rectly set for work being done Stitch width setting does not exceed setting when twin needle is used Presser foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar If needle thread breaks make sure Machine is threaded properly Thread is unwinding freely from spool Thread is free from slubs and knots Needle is correct size for thread Needle t...

Страница 65: ...bobbin Loosen stop latch screw A Slide latch B to the right for more thread on bobbin Tighten stop latch screw ADJUSTING MOTOR BELT TENSION Tension on the motor belt should be just sufficient to keep the belt from slipping If the motor belt needs adjustment Loosen motor bracket screw a full turn To increase belt tension lower the motor bracket To decrease belt tension raise the motor bracket Tight...

Страница 66: ...ng Bulb Press bulb into socket and at the same time turn bulb in direction shown to unlock bulb pin Do not attempt to unscrew the light bulb Note This machine is designed to use a 20 watt maximum light bulb Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin entering slot of socket and turn it in direction shown to lock bulb in position Replace face plate ...

Страница 67: ...ily replaced Raise the presser foot and make sure needle is in its highest position Place slide plate In slide way with the front edge close to but not covering the retaining spring as shown With a small screwdriver lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the underside of the plate Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring Close plate ...

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