handling special fabrics
Many fabrics, because of their construction or
finish, demand special attention in sewing.
Techniques used in stitching and handling,
and choice of machine accessories, will vary
with the fabric. Let the table below guide your
selection. Refer to page 52 for specific in
structions on how to use the
Even Feed
foot
and page 44 for instructions on sewing knit
and stretch fabrics. Thread usage information
is tabulated on page 8.
FABRIC-HANDLING TABLE
FABRIC
SPECIAL HANDLING
STITCH
Length-Type
NEEDLE
Style-Size
MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
VINYL-
leather-look
patent, suede,
reptile
Use transparent tape as a
substitute for pins or
basting — Topstitch to
hold seams and edges
fiat— Avoid worked
(fnachinej buttonholes;
6-8
i
Straight
Stitch
Style 2020
Size 14 or 16
for woven
backing
Style 2045
Size 14 or 16
for knit backing
Even Feed
Foot
Zig-Zag
Plate
PILE — velvet, ,
velveteen,
corduroy
Stitch in direction of nap
— Use plain seams —
Overcast or bind seam
edges to prevent fraying
— Press over a self-fabric
cloth.
10-15
[
Straight
Stitch for
seams
12-15 1
Zig-Zagpr
Honeycomb
Stitch ^
for over
casting
Style 2020
Size 14
Style 2045
Size 14 or 16
for panne
velvet
Even Feed
Foot
(Zig-Zag
Foot for
overcasting)
Zig-Zag
Plate
DEEP PILE-
fake fur
Pin rather than baste
searns — Stitch in direc
tion of nap — Use plain
seams for short-hair furs;
narrow overedged seams
for shaggy, buiky furs —
Shear pile from seam
allowances to reduce bulk.
6-10 i
Straight
Stitch for
plain Seams
12-20 1
Zig-Zag
Stitch for
overedged
seams
Style 2020
Size 16
Even Feed
Foot
Zig-Zag
Plate
PERMANENT
PRESS-
percale,
broadcloth,
shirting
Control seam tension
manually by holding fabric
taut as it passes under
the presser foot, Sew at
moderate speed.
10-15
i
Straight
Stitch
‘Style 2020
Size 11
or 14
Straight-
Stitch Foot
Straight-
Stitch Plate
PLAIDS and
STRIPES
Cut fabric pieces so that
stripes match exactly at
seam line — Line up stripes
and fabric edges care
fully at seam start — Pin
To suit
fabric
To suit fabric
See chart,
page 8.
Even Feed
Foot
Zig-Zag
Plate
or baste long seams.
50
Instrukcje obsługi maszyn do szycia firm Polskich jak i zagranicznych np. Singer Toyota Pfaff Gritzner Łucznik Arka